1st time metal solderer ...

I have decided to try for the 1st time to solder a fuel tank up . The bottom needs replacing . I have never soldered before anything like this just copper pipe and wires . but i can .... well have brazed gas welded when was at college , which was 6 years ago now .

just need to know what techniques do you guys find the best so any hints and tips would be great .

would like to know what type of solder be the best to use and the flux ? i have got one of those old soldering irons that have a copper tip that you heat up in a forge etc . Would that be ok if i was to heat it up over a gas ring ?

have been reading up and a few places have said to apply the solder to the work material rather than the iron itself ... is that correct ?

cheers , matt

Matt..
i hope you have better luck with it than me...i cant do it at all,
ive tried and tried and in the end i give up and throw the dummy out of the pram....lol...lol..
its one of those things i can get right..
good luck mate..
regards,mike...

well i have bought one of those old type copper headed soldering irons that need to be heated up on a fire .... think i shall try just doing lap joints with sheet steel till i get the knack .... the tank doesn't leak but has a scabby bottom was just going to clean the area and plate the whole thing . So bloody thin that the mig would go straight through it . Dont really want to apply a naked flame ie braze or gas welding would probably distort the tank .

mike d wrote:Matt..
i hope you have better luck with it than me...i cant do it at all,
ive tried and tried and in the end i give up and throw the dummy out of the pram....lol...lol..
its one of those things i can get right..
good luck mate..
regards,mike...

having a steady hand would most likley help too grandad

that would help i guess..
its out of my control young man.....and less of the old timer as well...
regards,grandad..

mike d wrote:that would help i guess..
its out of my control young man.....and less of the old timer as well...
regards,grandad..

when you tried in past mike , what did you use for flux ? the paste you use for plumbing fittings or bakers fluid ... a acid type ?

i used the pluming paste feller..

did it even stick ....

no way7..i have given up ON it all..its one of those jobs i cant do...

i will have to see what i can do then ... just practice ... or you could be going about it the totally wrong way mate

yes kn owing me i am doing it wrong...beats me how the hell i ended up with 7 kids....
must have been doing something rite..

mike...

in that department maybe but other things maybe not ... well so far i have no kids and im nearly 25

plenty of time for that mate...

mike....

matt86_wd2 wrote:in that department maybe but other things maybe not ... well so far i have no kids and im nearly 25

matt dont worry about it
i was 32 for my first child and my 2nd is coming into the world in a couple of weeks
and in only just over 33 yrs now !!!!!!! hows that then for you
mind you the new, younger wife could be the reason lol loloololololololoolol lol
BET YOU FEEL BETTER NOW THEN LOL LOL
thanks kev

Matt you need to tin (cover the copper tip with solder) the soldering iron once it's hot. Yes you can use a gas ring to heat it but it could be messy if any solder melts of the iron. You need to get plenty of heat into the tank before you start. Use a flux and stick solder (or body solder) for best results. You may be better off with something like this,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLARKE-CBT-1-BUTANE-GAS-TORCH-SOLDERING-BRAZING-DIY-CAR-/390339291158?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5ae208e816
The small jewelery type torch gets plenty of heat where you need it, just careful not to melt whats alread soldered. Not an easy job and difficult to explain how to do, try to practice on a few bits of scrap steel the same thickness first and try and pull them apart to see it it's held.
Good luck,

Stu.

what do you mean by stick solder stu .... could you find me a link for some ?

stationary stu wrote:Matt you need to tin (cover the copper tip with solder) the soldering iron once it's hot. Yes you can use a gas ring to heat it but it could be messy if any solder melts of the iron. You need to get plenty of heat into the tank before you start. Use a flux and stick solder (or body solder) for best results. You may be better off with something like this,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLARKE-CBT-1-BUTANE-GAS-TORCH-SOLDERING-BRAZING-DIY-CAR-/390339291158?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5ae208e816
The small jewelery type torch gets plenty of heat where you need it, just careful not to melt whats alread soldered. Not an easy job and difficult to explain how to do, try to practice on a few bits of scrap steel the same thickness first and try and pull them apart to see it it's held.
Good luck,

Stu.

could i not use a gas tortch that screws into my callor gas bottle ? as would have plenty of heat to heat up my iron and before i start to solder to heat up the metal before hand so make kit easier ?

Matt before filler was used on car body repairs they used solder, Old car restorers still do. I've had a look and it's not cheap so don't know if you still want to do it that way. First link is a kit and you can see the stick solder the second link is just the solder that's sold in 1kg pack.

BODY SOLDER KIT - SOLDER PAINT BRUSH TALLOW PADDLES NEW | eBay

http://www.tools-supplies.co.uk/stick-solder-1270-p.asp

Have a look around you might find it cheaper, I just posted the first I found. Also there's sites that shows you how to do body repairs using solder and it will give you an idea on how to use it.

The blow torch might be a bit to powerful or it might be ok, I can say as I don't know exactly what your doing or the condition of the metal.

Hope it's of help to you,

Stu.