Amanco 1-3/4hp chore boy

Steve, Is this the ignitor gasket you are refering to? If you do not have exhaust gasket with metal reinforcing make one from Klingersil......I am not a lover of gasket compounds either but I do sometimes give a smear of a compound called Stag. Stag is used mainly for pipe fitting, around flanges etc. Smells like aniseed and excess can be wiped off easily before it goes off with a rag and a little thinners.

Amanco original igniter gaskets were copper and I suppose asbestos sandwiched together, made a strong gasket to withstand the ignition pressures. Klingersil will not last long but will let you get on with the engine meantime.

billypurves wrote: ....I am not a lover of gasket compounds either but I do sometimes give a smear of a compound called Stag.

Stag Wellseal? Bloody good stuff. I'm not a fan of compounds either, although I do keep all different ones in the workshop. Stag Wellseal is generally thought of as one of the best. A little bit goes a very long way & it never really goes off completely, so any excess shouldn't block any oil ways up (not that that's an issue with this, but possibly worth bearing in mind?).

having a bit of trouble getting her going - I am not sure I am getting a spark, does anyone know how I would check? should I get a shock off the mag when I turn her over?

or is there a simple way of rigging up a batterie to bypass the mag?

thanks for any help - please.

I think you would get a shock of the mag as it is generating electric it just that it doesn't produce the spark, the points on the igniter does that. Although I could be wrong! (I have just bought a chore boy aswell, my first open crank)

You won't get a shock from the 'mag'. It only produces between 3 and 6 volts, you could connect a multimeter up to the wire that goes to the ignitors and earth and hold the inlet valve open and swing it over to see if you get a reading.

really the mag is just a dynamo?

Should be able to light a 3 volt bulb with a good LT "magneto" although 1.5 volt bulb stands a better chance of glowing.

Some interesting facts about grinding valves in this thread, sounds like everyone (or nearly) has been doing it wrong!

Villiers wrote:Should be able to light a 3 volt bulb with a good LT "magneto" although 1.5 volt bulb stands a better chance of glowing.

Some interesting facts about grinding valves in this thread, sounds like everyone (or nearly) has been doing it wrong!

would you like to elaborate rob ???

Bulbs? If you connect a wire from the LT terminal to a bulb terminal then take another wire from the second terminal or the outer case of the bulb (Single terminal bulb) and take this back to the magneto casing it should light up when spun over, or so I was told.

Villiers wrote:Bulbs? If you connect a wire from the LT terminal to a bulb terminal then take another wire from the second terminal or the outer case of the bulb (Single terminal bulb) and take this back to the magneto casing it should light up when spun over, or so I was told.

no not that  

the correct valve lapping in procedure

matt

Oh that, well, I always get my brother to re face my valves on his valve facing machine, then I re cut the seats, and then use my old valve lapping tool to give them a grind, bit of course, then a final polish with fine, pencil trick is a nice touch, might try that next time.

Villiers wrote:Oh that, well, I always get my brother to re face my valves on his valve facing machine, then I re cut the seats, and then use my old valve lapping tool to give them a grind, bit of course, then a final polish with fine, pencil trick is a nice touch, might try that next time.

ahh nothing from the normal , that pencil trick i have allways used got taught from when i did the engine on my fergie when i was 14 , ever since i use it .

matt

Can't see how you can get it wrong really, it's valve grinding, not flaming rocker science!!


I just do the re-facing and seat cutting because I'm lucky and have the equipment to do so. Still use course paste though.

Villiers wrote:Can't see how you can get it wrong really, it's valve grinding, not flaming rocker science!!


I just do the re-facing and seat cutting because I'm lucky and have the equipment to do so. Still use course paste though.

I only do the seat if looks like it needs it , but 9 times out of 10 on these older engines they need to be done unless you are re restoring a engine .

matt

I don't do the seats in my 3 Petters, or for that matter 2 of my Villiers engines, never have done, never will.

Villiers wrote:I don't do the seats in my 3 Petters, or for that matter 2 of my Villiers engines, never have done, never will.

could that be as there 2 stroke ....  

[quote="matt86"][quote="Villiers"]I don't do the seats in my 3 Petters, or for that matter 2 of my Villiers engines, never have done, never will.[/quote]

could that be as there 2 stroke ....  [/quote]

Could well be

If you're using coarse paste on freshly cut valves & seats then you are doing it wrong. Either that or the person cutting the valves and/or seats is doing something wrong. Either way it makes no sense to me.

[quote="nutgone"]If you're using coarse paste on freshly cut valves & seats then you are doing it wrong. Either that or the person cutting the valves and/or seats is doing something wrong. :scratch:Either way it makes no sense to me.[/quote]

Didn't ask for your input.

not back on this debate again  

matt

Not from me. 

Hi,

Looks like I am going to have to sell the Amanco as I just have to much on the go, thought I would see if anyone is interested or would maybe make me an offer before I resort to ebay, I have not had time to get her going 100% but I am sure it wouldn't take much,