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My new toy my jap 2a

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Re: My new toy my jap 2a

Post by stationary stu on Mon May 27 2013, 11:14

kevjhnsn wrote:that is so true stu
its how you want it to look that matters as i said its yours so do it how it makes you happy
just dont leave rust under the new paint ,our youd just be wasting your time and paint
"tin worms out not under" Very Happy Very Happy
kev

Very true Kev, thing is people forget that tin worm is on both sides of the metal and do half a job on the bits that's not seen then wonder where the rust has come from.

Stu.

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thanks

Post by Raymond_Hopwood on Mon May 27 2013, 19:53

thanks guys and yeah some things do look better left alone and some look better filled tin worm not sure but kev will vouch i hope for how much fun i had getting the rust off lol after i wire brushed it i looked like a panda were my safety specks were lol

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Re: My new toy my jap 2a

Post by stationary stu on Tue May 28 2013, 11:35

Raymond_Hopwood wrote: after i wire brushed it i looked like a panda were my safety specks were lol

All part of the fun Ray. monkey

Stu.

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Re: My new toy my jap 2a

Post by Raymond_Hopwood on Tue May 28 2013, 19:35

lol yeah all part of the fun but the wife and kids were not happy when i came in dirty lol

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Re: My new toy my jap 2a

Post by stationary stu on Wed May 29 2013, 11:47

Raymond_Hopwood wrote:lol yeah all part of the fun but the wife and kids were not happy when i came in dirty lol

It's good to get down n dirty :stick lol: :stick lol: :stick lol:

Stu.

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Re: My new toy my jap 2a

Post by kevjhnsn on Wed May 29 2013, 16:04

well whats going on with the project at this time ,as not seen anything new since last week mate
come on now ,waiting for the update or even you to pop down so we can get the carb tested and find a fitting for that tank so i can solder it in for you
kev

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Re: My new toy my jap 2a

Post by stationary stu on Thu May 30 2013, 13:07

That's it Kev, you tell him, no slacking when there's engines involved. Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing

Stu.

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sorry

Post by Raymond_Hopwood on Mon Jun 10 2013, 22:36

sorry for the delay guys had a few mad weeks but here are the pics you have been waiting for just need to get a vid of it running properly and do a few tweaks to the carb and governor just to make it run a bit smoother enjoy











hope you enjoy the pics will have vids soon











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Re: My new toy my jap 2a

Post by kevjhnsn on Tue Jun 11 2013, 01:49

coming along now ray mate
see you at 9am and later we will have to get things going again Smile
p.s the paint colour is very close to one of the original metalic shades they came in Very Happy
now ive found the air filter for her in the storage shed Smile
lets see if we can get her, and not you running this time Shocked i will try and find you a "rubber h/t lead cap"
just to stop you jumping around again :stick lol: :stick lol: :stick lol:
"been there done that" but its funnier when its somone else geek
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Re: My new toy my jap 2a

Post by stationary stu on Tue Jun 11 2013, 11:31

Nice to see you back Ray, I was wondering if Kev was working you to hard to manage to type when you got home. Laughing Laughing Laughing

Looking good mate can't wait to see and hear the video. Very Happy

Stu.

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finaly

Post by Raymond_Hopwood on Wed Jun 12 2013, 19:02

just before i start i would like to say a big thank you to kev for all his help and expertise i would prob of taken me a lot longer to get to this point cause if it wasn't for him i wold not of got in to stationary lol just one last pic of the air filter with its original colour which aint far off it new colour really chuffed lol 

and finally what you have all been waiting the vids how not to start an engine is my first vid have fun i did lol it was shocking


first run with problems



from here on is it running lovely and running a water pump







here are the ones with the pump





and thank you all for following and offering advice please tell me what you think ray

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Re: My new toy my jap 2a

Post by kevjhnsn on Thu Jun 13 2013, 02:10

ray
heres a before video from a few years back


 and with all the extra time and a donner carb for bits and bobs and few tweeks ect ect,
shes almost ready to rally this year ,and get another lad on the scene Very Happy
i think youve done a cracking job for your first attemp at this game ,love the finishing touches ect
so whats the next project then ray  another jap or ???   WinkLaughingWink    ??????? , while were looking for a 
5" pulley with a 22mm or 13/16" center 
and a small fuel tank for it
kev

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Re: My new toy my jap 2a

Post by nutgone on Fri Jun 14 2013, 14:04

She looks lovely, think I would have changed the HT lead though, probably for a plain black.

She's running a little lumpy, but then she's probably had a hard life. Did you change the condenser? If not it might help smooth out the running a bit, but it's more likely just worn old carb bits (throttle spindles letting air in, jets worn, stuff like that). That's the thing with these old engines, where do you stop? They've all had a hard life & should show signs of that I suppose, the main thing is she's running.

Paintwork looks a treat :thumbup: 

Do you have any plans? Maybe find something to run off that reduction drive box. Now, what needs to run really slowly???

Maybe something that was once hand operated, like a hand-wind pillar drill, they're always best driven relatively slowly, & they crop up reasonably often on eBay & at autojumbles.

Also, my brother had one of these years ago (that never ran as nice as this one, but we had a blue one that ran like a Swiss watch), his one had a home made fuel tank with home made straps. It's not a difficult one to do. Or if you can find a little tank the straps aren't hard to make, couple of strips of steel (best not to use aluminium as it will snap), bend them round a lamp post, drill holes, add nuts, bolts & a couple of spacers, job's a good'un. Wink

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Re: My new toy my jap 2a

Post by stationary stu on Sun Jun 16 2013, 13:08

I  have to agree with Nuts it is a bit lumpy but more so under load from the water pump. It maybe just needs a good run for a few hours so it settles in. The first video it sounded rough but that cleared so I think it will be a good engine once she settled in and running sweet.

Stu.

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hi

Post by Raymond_Hopwood on Thu Jun 27 2013, 20:09

hi all finally got my hands on a fuel tank and silencer but still after a pulley for this beast 13/16 is the crank diameter so id any one can point me in the right direction i would be great full and will have pics of my new project soon got my hands on a jap 0 1/3 hp with a lennox water pump

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Re: My new toy my jap 2a

Post by nutgone on Thu Jun 27 2013, 22:11

Try Beltingonline or the bearingboys for pulleys. They are brand new, but look fine with some primer & brushed on paint (nice thick coats make them look older). You'll need to use a taper-lock bush though, but they are dead simple to use & a very good invention.

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cheers

Post by Raymond_Hopwood on Fri Jun 28 2013, 12:44

thanks nuts will look them up right away not bothered about it being new just need one and when i got one can keep and eye out for an older one and always change it

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Re: My new toy my jap 2a

Post by stationary stu on Fri Jun 28 2013, 13:09

What about the overall size are you not bothered as long as it fits.

Can you not find one on ebay or get one drilled out to the size you need. Or could you get a taper lock bush and use that with a pulley?

This would be handy for you if it's not to far away.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/steel-stepped-pulley-multi-speed-pully-lathe-wooden-drive-pulley-3-speed-steel-/281125639963?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item417464d71b

Stu.

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Re: My new toy my jap 2a

Post by Raymond_Hopwood on Fri Jun 28 2013, 18:52

stationary stu wrote:What about the overall size are you not bothered as long as it fits.

Can you not find one on ebay or get one drilled out to the size you need. Or could you get a taper lock bush and use that with a pulley?

This would be handy for you if it's not to far away.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/steel-stepped-pulley-multi-speed-pully-lathe-wooden-drive-pulley-3-speed-steel-/281125639963?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item417464d71b

Stu.

cheers stu think that's a bit big for what i want with it being 3 step the whole thing is about the same size as my jap looking at the pic lol! but yeah over all size i was thinking a bout 5 inch diameter but not overly fussed as long as it fits and another problem im running in to is my shaft is not tapered its just got a key to hold it in place which i have to make but want to get the pulley first

ray

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Re: My new toy my jap 2a

Post by nutgone on Fri Jun 28 2013, 19:35

The Taper-Lock bush system can be used with or without a key, so if you go to somewhere like Beltingonline (I've used them befors & find them very helpful) & use a modern pulley you have the choice. They also sell "key steel" which is what keys are made of. You usually buy it in lengths & cut it to size. But you can make your own keys.

Shaft keys (& this is all types, woodruff, taper, gib, straight, feather keys) are made of normal soft(ish) materials as they are not designed to take any loading, they are purely meant to locate the pulley/flywheel/sprocket/coupling etc etc. So there isn't supposed to be any sheer loading forces on a key at all, the piece should be tightened to the shaft & it is the friction fit of the pulley on the shaft that takes the loading (although a key will help with shock loadings).

Stuff that uses tapered type gib keys works the same way, it is the taper of the key which locks the pulley/flywheel to the shaft. Usually if a key snaps off it has been badly fitted or the wheel has come loose.

That's the engineering theory behind it anyway. just thought I'd share that with you. But basically it means the shaft diameter needs to be very accurately measured, although taper-lock bushes will take up a certain amount of discrepancy.

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Re: My new toy my jap 2a

Post by nutgone on Fri Jun 28 2013, 19:53

Here's a 5 inch V belt pulley pulley with A section groove....

http://www.beltingonline.com/125mm-1-groove-spa-v-pulley-1610-t-l-spa125-9029

This takes a 1610 taper-lock bush. This page lists the 1610 bushes with imperial bores....

http://www.beltingonline.com/1610-taperlock-bushes-4860

The only trouble is these don't list a 13/16" bore bush, as it's not really a standard size. Is there any chance it's 7/8" bore? Or maybe something different? Ideally it needs to be measured with a micrometer, not a digital vernier. But if you do use a digital vernier make sure the zero is properly set & have another go. There probably is a 13/16" bush available somewhere, but not sure where.

As you can see from these prices, we're not talking big bucks here. The pulley is listed at £8.46 & the bush is just £3.17, even with VAT (not sure if that's included there or not) & postage we're probably talking around the 20 quid mark

The other thing to do would be to look out for a pulley with what they call "Pilot Bore", this will have a small hole through the centre & you would have to have the correct diameter bore machined out by someone with a lathe & possibly get a key-way blanched into it as well. Although you might get away with just a grub-screw to hold it on (boring out on a lathe is one thing, but getting a key-way blanched is more expensive as it requires more specialised machinery).

Hope this helps a little. If you can re-measure that shaft & post up your results (in inches or millimetres) maybe one of us could take a stab at the size. But even if it is 13/16" you'll probably find a bush somewhere, or you can get those bushes in metric, maybe that would be the way to go, just don't go one size bigger or the bush will split as you put it on, they are very brittle (as I learned to my cost Embarassed )

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Re: My new toy my jap 2a

Post by Raymond_Hopwood on Sat Jun 29 2013, 20:41

nutgone wrote:Here's a 5 inch V belt pulley pulley with A section groove....

http://www.beltingonline.com/125mm-1-groove-spa-v-pulley-1610-t-l-spa125-9029

This takes a 1610 taper-lock bush. This page lists the 1610 bushes with imperial bores....

http://www.beltingonline.com/1610-taperlock-bushes-4860

The only trouble is these don't list a 13/16" bore bush, as it's not really a standard size. Is there any chance it's 7/8" bore? Or maybe something different? Ideally it needs to be measured with a micrometer, not a digital vernier. But if you do use a digital vernier make sure the zero is properly set & have another go. There probably is a 13/16" bush available somewhere, but not sure where.

As you can see from these prices, we're not talking big bucks here. The pulley is listed at £8.46 & the bush is just £3.17, even with VAT (not sure if that's included there or not) & postage we're probably talking around the 20 quid mark

The other thing to do would be to look out for a pulley with what they call "Pilot Bore", this will have a small hole through the centre & you would have to have the correct diameter bore machined out by someone with a lathe & possibly get a key-way blanched into it as well. Although you might get away with just a grub-screw to hold it on (boring out on a lathe is one thing, but getting a key-way blanched is more expensive as it requires more specialised machinery).

Hope this helps a little. If you can re-measure that shaft & post up your results (in inches or millimetres) maybe one of us could take a stab at the size. But even if it is 13/16" you'll probably find a bush somewhere, or you can get those bushes in metric, maybe that would be the way to go, just don't go one size bigger or the bush will split as you put it on, they are very brittle (as I learned to my cost Embarassed )

thanks nuts spent bout half hour between the 2 sites you gave me very confused with lots of numbers and pics and my kids screaming at me so thank for taking the time to look for me

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Re: My new toy my jap 2a

Post by kevjhnsn on Sun Jun 30 2013, 18:32

Raymond_Hopwood wrote:
nutgone wrote:Here's a 5 inch V belt pulley pulley with A section groove....

http://www.beltingonline.com/125mm-1-groove-spa-v-pulley-1610-t-l-spa125-9029

This takes a 1610 taper-lock bush. This page lists the 1610 bushes with imperial bores....

http://www.beltingonline.com/1610-taperlock-bushes-4860

The only trouble is these don't list a 13/16" bore bush, as it's not really a standard size. Is there any chance it's 7/8" bore? Or maybe something different? Ideally it needs to be measured with a micrometer, not a digital vernier. But if you do use a digital vernier make sure the zero is properly set & have another go. There probably is a 13/16" bush available somewhere, but not sure where.

As you can see from these prices, we're not talking big bucks here. The pulley is listed at £8.46 & the bush is just £3.17, even with VAT (not sure if that's included there or not) & postage we're probably talking around the 20 quid mark

The other thing to do would be to look out for a pulley with what they call "Pilot Bore", this will have a small hole through the centre & you would have to have the correct diameter bore machined out by someone with a lathe & possibly get a key-way blanched into it as well. Although you might get away with just a grub-screw to hold it on (boring out on a lathe is one thing, but getting a key-way blanched is more expensive as it requires more specialised machinery).

Hope this helps a little. If you can re-measure that shaft & post up your results (in inches or millimetres) maybe one of us could take a stab at the size. But even if it is 13/16" you'll probably find a bush somewhere, or you can get those bushes in metric, maybe that would be the way to go, just don't go one size bigger or the bush will split as you put it on, they are very brittle (as I learned to my cost Embarassed )

thanks nuts spent bout half hour between the 2 sites you gave me very confused with lots of numbers and pics and my kids screaming at me so thank for taking the time to look for me

ray
ive finished making you a round fuel tank ,that dont have any leaks,Very Happy 
from that squashed and tapered to one end one that some nut bought for you Embarassed 
just finished your fuel tap yesterday ,found you a plunger for it ,honed it out, and the plunger ive been busy sripping it apart and fitting a new cork on
all you need is the little brass stop screw ,i cant find one to fit yours ,so leave you somthing to do there ray
fuel pipe end must be in your place as i have only one end and the fitting for the carb so the other must be in the bucket ,so i need it to solder onyour pipe so you can get polishing it
kev

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Re: My new toy my jap 2a

Post by nutgone on Sun Jun 30 2013, 18:54

The little brass stop screw for the push-pull Ewarts petrol taps????

I have a little cheat for those if you're interested. They're a pretty small one & very hard to replace, but being an ex-electrician I still have my M3.5 thread chasing tool. That is the size of the screws on plug sockets & light switches, they are M3.5 (3.5mm). In an electrical wholesalers you can buy a re-thread tool (basically a tap with a small screwdriver handle) as quite often you get a socket box with a bad thread.

Anyway, that tool goes straight into the little hole in the side of the petrol tap, re-taps the thread to M3.5, then you get a brass socket screw (also available at wholesalers & very easily cut), file the end to take the thread off the last couple of millimetres (like a grub-screw, so it'll sit in the little groove in the side of the plunger) & bob's your uncle, problem solved. It doesn't look exactly right, but it's better than jamming a wood screw in there or having the tap plunger pop out every time you pull it on.

You might find a screw to fit anyway, but those tiny little ones tend to get lost quite easy. At least if it's re-tapped to a common metric size you know you'll get a screw.

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Re: My new toy my jap 2a

Post by kevjhnsn on Mon Jul 01 2013, 01:23

nutgone wrote:The little brass stop screw for the push-pull Ewarts petrol taps????

I have a little cheat for those if you're interested. They're a pretty small one & very hard to replace, but being an ex-electrician I still have my M3.5 thread chasing tool. That is the size of the screws on plug sockets & light switches, they are M3.5 (3.5mm). In an electrical wholesalers you can buy a re-thread tool (basically a tap with a small screwdriver handle) as quite often you get a socket box with a bad thread.

Anyway, that tool goes straight into the little hole in the side of the petrol tap, re-taps the thread to M3.5, then you get a brass socket screw (also available at wholesalers & very easily cut), file the end to take the thread off the last couple of millimetres (like a grub-screw, so it'll sit in the little groove in the side of the plunger) & bob's your uncle, problem solved. It doesn't look exactly right, but it's better than jamming a wood screw in there or having the tap plunger pop out every time you pull it on.

You might find a screw to fit anyway, but those tiny little ones tend to get lost quite easy. At least if it's re-tapped to a common metric size you know you'll get a screw.
:thumbup: :thumbup: 

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Re: My new toy my jap 2a

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