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getting lost for ideas

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Post by kevin bird Sun Jun 09 2013, 09:11

I have got two Lister d's both of which i cant get to run and i am supposed to be taking them to astle park in two weeks
Timing is correct on them both
Good strong spark on them both
Plenty of air getting in
Good compression
Each time i try spark plug comes out wet or they run for a minute producing black smoke and banging then cut out

Struggling so any advice would be appreciated

Thanks
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Post by kevjhnsn Sun Jun 09 2013, 12:24

are the carbs like the wolseley wds ,were the needles in the carb are /can slip or be put at the wrong level for the floats and then they can flood into the engine slowly but continously, as its just a small wire soldered onto the float and a small groove in the needle for it to line up to
thats one thing it could be ,that ive missed and over looked in the past
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Post by matt86 Sun Jun 09 2013, 13:00

sounds like a fuel problem to me , strip carb and give it a good clean . When starting are you winding the handwheel fully out and then once running shutting down to around halfway ?

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Post by Guest Sun Jun 09 2013, 13:11

Sounds like over fueling to me, as above check carb and float.

Stu.

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Post by kevin bird Sun Jun 09 2013, 13:35

Had it running now this morning but knocking a lot
As soon as I try to turn wheel down it cuts out and I have to tension the adjustable governor spring a lot
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Post by steve w Sun Jun 09 2013, 17:27

I have found that a new spark plug sometimes does the trick especially a hotter running one as these engines only tick over slow so the plug might need to be kept hotter.
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Post by nutgone Sun Jun 09 2013, 20:24

Sounds like the carbs need a really good strip down & clean. The main trouble is they are mostly made of cast iron, which rusts. As someone has suggested, Check the float position on the float needle, make sure the little hole in the float chamber cap is clear as well, or the needle won't be able to rise into it. Also check the float actually stops the fuel entering the chamber when it rises (un-screw the cap & switch the fuel on). The needle can get crud caught under it or the tapered end can get worn, causing fuel to continue to flow in when it shouldn't.

It sounds like a major over fuelling issue, but how good are your magnetos? If you have a multimeter then test the coil on both of them, you should get a steady reading in the thousands of Ohms range (somewhere around 4 to 8 K.ohms) between the high tension output & the chassis of the mag (you're best to remove the Bakelite cover to test this). Then test that you get the same reading through the HT lead with the mag cap back on, if not then the contacts aren't touching & this will reduce your spark (& put extra strain on your mag coil), in this case they just need bending a little to make contact.

Also, it might be worth getting yourself a couple of new condensers from a motor spares shop (just ask for Lucas condensers off a Morris Minor or a Mini). You can & will still get a good spark with a knackered condenser, but it will either run very rough or not at all. It foxes a lot of people, but worn condensers can give you all sorts of weird rough running engine symptoms (I always replace them now, since I got a proper tester for them. I've never tested an old condenser & been happy to put it back into a magneto, every single one out of the last 20 or so have shown signs of breaking down internally).

Can't be much though, you'll have them running sweet as a nut soon enough. Wink

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