Lister belt Pully Removal

Hello Everyone,
I have recently joined this forum in the hope of getting some help with restoring a 1942 Lister D as a retirement project. I have managed to buy an engine on ebay and it does not seem to be in too bad a condition and did run. It has a quite badly rusted drive belt pulley which needs to be removed. The first problem of removing the seized set screw I solved by using a dremel to enlarge the access hole and then employing a socket to unscrew it. I then positioned a three legged hub puller over the belt pulley in the naive hope it would come off. As it didn't budge I had a closer look and I think there is woodruff type key inserted into the crankshaft groove. However, it is not accessible as its head appears to be below the internal face of the pulley. There is no access room between the flywheel and the pulley which is flush up to the gibb key to chase it out. Any suggestions please as to how to remove the key, if there is one, and the pulley (apart from hit it with a bigger hammer which I've already done).
Jim

Hi Jim, those pulley's can be right sods to get off as I well know!  The key doesn't actually secure it, just stops it rotating.  Like you I used a three legged puller but the rim of the pulley started to break up before it actually moved, I later ground it all flat again with an angle grinder so it was useable, just a little shorter!!   I guess that heat is the answer, I have removed other cast pulley's by pouring boiling water over them while keeping tension on them with a puller.  It might take a while but it may work for you, otherwise it may have to be 'sacrificed' instead as there are plenty around!  One good thing about the pulley is that (usually) it protects the flywheel gib key and they tend to shift fairly easily.   Good Luck haha.

Pete.

Many thanks Pete. I hadn't thought of the hot water idea. I'll try it tomorrow. I'm so glad the key is not the major cause of its reluctance to move.
Jim

freethought wrote:Many thanks Pete. I hadn't thought of the hot water idea. I'll try it tomorrow. I'm so glad the key is not the major cause of its reluctance to move.
Jim

The key could of course be coroded and holding it slightly Jim!  The pulley face, on a genuine Lister pulley,  is actually about an inch longer than its hub so there is not quite as much of it on the crankshaft as it appears, that is why the rear end is a little fragile as there isn't much metal there.

Pete.

Pete,
Had a go with the hot water today without any luck. I'm phoning a friend with a propane torch and see if that works. If not I'll have to angle grind it off. Once again thanks for the help.
Jim

Have you tried knocking it further on first before trying to pull it off?

Its off!. Thanks for all the help and tips. I heated it, I hit it with a lump hammer to knock it back. With the help of the puller and a 5ft. lever and the lump hammer used every quarter turn it finally came off. It fought to the last half inch or so (2.75 inches in all). I hope the rest of the engine doesn't put up such a fight. The Gib key looks in good condition though as Pete said it might.
Jim

Get the key out could fight you as well. Just go careful and don't bust the head off!!!!!