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Climax Water Pump Problem

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Post by s.morris Sun Oct 06 2013, 20:14

Hello

My dad purchased a climax water pump yesterday knowing that it wasn't 100% but when we've taken it apart to find the problem we've discovered that the connecting rod is completely broken and it's just our luck that it's happened in a place that isn't going to be the easiest to repair.
I was just wondering if anyone on here would know of anywhere we would be able to purchase a new one or if we're going to just have to be very lucky to come across one?
I've included a couple of pictures as also it would be nice to know a little more about this pump as all there is on it is the name Climax and a plaque with the number 702 on it.
Thank you for any help you may be able to offer

Sarah

Climax Water Pump Problem Imag0510

Climax Water Pump Problem Imag0511


Last edited by s.morris on Sun Oct 06 2013, 21:22; edited 1 time in total

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Post by Lewis MacRae Sun Oct 06 2013, 21:14

You've got a nice looking water pump!

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Post by matt86 Sun Oct 06 2013, 21:30

now i think you could braze that together or even tig it ....

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Post by Appletop Sun Oct 06 2013, 21:49

[quote="matt86"]now i think you could braze that together or even tig it ....

matt[/quote]
You could but wouldn't it be a weak spot? I would be inclined to weld it up and then drill and tap along the conrod, get some thread seal and screw a bolt in, cut the head off then machine the bearing round again, get my meaning?
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Post by matt86 Sun Oct 06 2013, 22:23

Villiers wrote:
matt86 wrote:now i think you could braze that together or even tig it ....

matt
You could but wouldn't it be a weak spot? I would be inclined to weld it up and then drill and tap along the conrod, get some thread seal and screw a bolt in, cut the head off then machine the bearing round again, get my meaning?
yes i get what you mean .... or as your not going to see it , get some flat bar or bronze if thats what its made from and plate both sides when welded .

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Post by StewartH Sun Oct 06 2013, 23:37

Hi Sarah - if the connecting rod is a cast item I would be tempted to use metal stitching. If you google 'metal stitching' you can find a load of companies who offer a solution. There is a well known global network of engineers under the 'metalock' name who would be a good place to start - try calling one of the local UK companies to you to see if they can help. They should be able - I have used stitched repairs on similar issues and have had the repairs certified for marine use on offshore rigs by Lloyds of London so you know it's a quality repair.

Good luck and let us all know how it goes.

Best

Hamish
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Post by s.morris Tue Oct 08 2013, 19:45

Hey everyone

Thank you for all the advice, we managed to braze it back together today so we'll see how that goes for now, we've given it a quick test and all seems well but we'll keep an eye out for another, apparently some parts of the pump are the same as a Lister so hopefully we'll be able to pick one up somewhere.

Does anyone know if there is a particular type of oil we should use with this pump? We just used some ordinary engine oil today for testing it but should we be using something else?

Thanks again

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Post by callum12 Tue Jan 07 2014, 16:40

how about drilling a hole down through the connecting rod and the bit thats cracked off (minding that you don't drill though the bushing) and inserting some rod then braze it. This might work and it would be stronger than brazing alone.
i'm not too good at explaining stuff so i hope you get what i mean!  Embarassed 

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Post by blackvanman Tue Jan 07 2014, 19:33

s.morris wrote:Hey everyone

Thank you for all the advice, we managed to braze it back together today so we'll see how that goes for now, we've given it a quick test and all seems well but we'll keep an eye out for another, apparently some parts of the pump are the same as a Lister so hopefully we'll be able to pick one up somewhere.

Does anyone know if there is a particular type of oil we should use with this pump? We just used some ordinary engine oil today for testing it but should we be using something else?

Thanks again

I would have thought if brazed properly it should hold, as for oil, engine oil should be fine 10or15w40 its only a crank and bearings. Smile

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Post by matt86 Tue Jan 07 2014, 19:46

just use a 30 weight oil thats what most of the older engine manufactures recommend , even briggs say to use a SAE 30 still to this day .

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Post by Matth92 Tue Jan 07 2014, 19:53

matt86 wrote:just use a 30 weight oil thats what most of the older engine manufactures recommend  , even briggs say to use a SAE 30 still to this day .

Chuck some thick old gear oil in there, it wont leak so much then, these old pumps are buggers for it!
matt

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Post by matt86 Tue Jan 07 2014, 20:51

Matth92 wrote:
matt86 wrote:just use a 30 weight oil thats what most of the older engine manufactures recommend  , even briggs say to use a SAE 30 still to this day .

Chuck some thick old gear oil in there, it wont leak so much then, these old pumps are buggers for it!
matt

might drag it down a bit but end of day the tolerances are not that close anymore with the wear inside .... ah sod it what about some liquid grease  Twisted Evil 

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Post by Matth92 Tue Jan 07 2014, 21:53

I had a lister domestic that had had the rod all welded up, went on for years until I sold it it did

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