Stuart Turner R2 x2

Hi Kev,
You may well be right there - I can only say that one of my R2s has 842 on the flywheel back plate and this engine has been dated to September 1942.My other one has no numbers on it at all.
All the best,
Kev.

just a few pics of how one of the engines is doing

Coming along nicely, I will crack on with my Stuart one day!

Pete.

Looking very nice! I love seeing all the brass shining!

Looking really good there - nice paint colour as well.You certainly are cracking on with the restoration.Good photos as well.
All the best,
Kev.

Started to strip dynamo today ( lots of bits I know nothing about lol )

I've managed to get some brass pipe for cooling tank, and I've turned some sockets to connect pipe to engine . I think it's time to crack on with the trolley just as soon as I can get new circular saw , drill, planer, jig saw, dremel , belt sander that some low life nicked from my van .

Hi all
I've started one of the engines and it's running fine but it's sprung an oil leak from around the front shaft /governor housing and I can't see why . I'm running out of idea's . Anyone got any thoughts ?

Hi Kev,
My thought,for what its worth , is that I think that there is an oil seal in there - is it damaged or is it seating properly?
Good luck!
Kev.

Hi Kev
There is an oil seal of sorts from the looks of it a ring of cork is what it amounts too. I didn't notice it when I sprayed the part and I did get some over spray on it so I suppose I'll clean it up and try again.

Hi all  
haven't been able to do much on the engine of late l am stuck with the trolley at the moment as I've had some cast wheels for quite a while and I had thought of using them for this project but when I dug them out they just looked far to big, so I am making some smaller ones. I've also had to rethink the cooling tank as the fire extinguisher I had earmarked was to small and I have set to work converting a small gas bottle.


 

Hi Kev,
That trolley is coming along nicely - what are you going to use the cupboard for - the battery from the charging/lighting set?
I am looking to use a 5gal cooling tank for my set up and was thinking of using an empty oil/grease drum but am having problems finding one so am now looking,like you, at old gas containers ( 15kg) which seem to offer a good alternative - plus the fact that the scrap yard down the road from me have a good few available.
Kev.

Hi all
You are correct Kev the cupboard will house a battery, its got to have a door fitted and the wiring for the charging circuit and the starter circuit will run under the trolley into it.
I think I may have solved the leaking oil seal on the shaft by removing it and dropping it in a can of boiling water for an hour,the cork seal has now swollen a fair bit and is a good snug fit I think it will solve the problem.
The dynamo is painted and ready to fit and the control box is in primer so when I can get them fitted on the outfit I can route the cooling pipes to the tank and I think that will put me on the home straight and I can get to grips with the wiring. Happy days

The problem with the oil seal remains I refitted it but I still leaked
I noticed the seal was soft and supple after boiling but it soon hardened again and a really close inspection has revealed it's not cork as I thought but leather, I am now going to try boiling it in oil so it doesn't dry out after and if that doesn't work I'll set about making a new leather seal.

Hi all
It's been a while since I last posted on the r2 engines .The second engine was minus it's inner rotor plate containing the magnets after much searching for a replacement I found a guy on you tube who was running the same engine and reckoned the flywheel assembly off a j.a.p 2a would fit and do the job and it looks like he is correct up to a point. I want to retain the original flywheel for the r2 so in order to fit over the 2a I need to machine down the outside of the rotor cover to fit under the stuart flywheel. If I struggle to machine enough off the donor plate I may have to machine some material from inside the ST wheel.then the cam on the 2a is machined on the crankshaft but on the stuart it's machined into the rotor plate so all in all not quite as simple as it looks , still it will give me some lathe time which I enjoy.

jap a2 finned flywheel and stuart flywheel it has to fit inside.

base and cover off jap 2a

Hi Kev,
Life is rarely straightforward in this restoration game is it!
Will you be able to machine the fins off the Jap flywheel ok? After you then fetle it to fit inside the original R2's outer flywheel will there be enough thread on the crank shaft to secure it safely?
Sorting the cam out will be interesting!Just a thought but is it worth contacting the guy on youtube to see how this problem was overcome on his engine?
Good luck!
Kev.

Hi kev I've been studying the problem today and I think the best plan is to use the original base plate with the standard coil and points etc and use the cover off the jap to provide the magnetism. The main problem to be solved is the cam is machined as part of the standard hub centre where as the jap one is a separate cam mounted on the crankshaft but I think I can machine it to fit the crankshaft of the stuart. .The he fins should be no problem to machine off and I don't see too much hassle slimming it down to fit under the stuart cover but I'll be more confident when I've removed the inner flywheel from my other engine to get a better comparison.
It's sometimes a frustrating and often puzzling hobby but getting a rusty lump of iron to actually work, often after many years of neglect has its own rewards at least that's what I tell myself when I feel the engine has a mind of its own and obviously hates me..There must be something in it because when I finally finish these engines and my half finished bomb plough I can start on a 1914 amanco hired man and that really is a basket case having spent several decades lying in a ditch.

Hi all just a quick pic to show the connectors ive made to fix the copper pipe for cooling to the engine, the fittings are made from a short length of threaded brass tube and a standard gas fitting with the wall plate removed and tuned down on the lathe.