Clinton 2.25 HP

Started cleaning up the tinwork yesterday. Good news - all pretty sound. Bad news - all the captive bolts holding the recoil started were almost thread-less so I knocked them out.  Not sure how I'll fix new ones in without welding tackle.



Other bad news. The petrol tank was quite rusted inside so I filled it with my favourite pickling fluid and let it stew for a couple of days. Removing the rust has now revealed a pin hole in the bottom.

Still haven't worked out how the drive plate off. Any ideas? It will make cleaning and painting awkward with it still attached.

Woodsman wrote:Started cleaning up the tinwork yesterday. Good news - all pretty sound. Bad news - all the captive bolts holding the recoil started were almost thread-less so I knocked them out.  Not sure how I'll fix new ones in with welding tackle.

Put the bolt through and hold it temporarily with a nut then concentrate the weld on the bolt head just "washing" it onto the tinwork so it doesn't blow through, should only need 2 or 3 tacks. If you're using coated bolts, grind the coating off first.

See correction to typo above - should have read 'without' Dur!!    Any thoughts on drive plate removal?

Woodsman wrote:Started cleaning up the tinwork yesterday. Good news - all pretty sound. Bad news - all the captive bolts holding the recoil started were almost thread-less so I knocked them out.  Not sure how I'll fix new ones in without welding tackle.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/BOOMSTART-Riveter-Threaded-Insert-Nutsert/dp/B094Y7GZ23/ref=sr_1_49_sspa?adgrpid=1185274433852060&hvadid=74079853275289&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=69095&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-74079793172779%3Aloc-188&hydadcr=19917_1851250&keywords=rivnuts&qid=1676190968&sr=8-49-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9idGY&psc=1

Interesting. Cheers Matt.

woodsman,
Not wishing to steal Matt's thunder I have the one Matt has shown and one of these also, this one doesnt require so much grip strength as you use both hands.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Mandrels-Rivnuts-Labor-Saving-Carrying/dp/B07X9RR2QB/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=rivnuts&qid=1676197855&sr=8-6

Maryalice

maryalice wrote:woodsman,
Not wishing to steal Matt's thunder I have the one Matt has shown and one of these also, this one doesnt require so much grip strength as you use both hands.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Mandrels-Rivnuts-Labor-Saving-Carrying/dp/B07X9RR2QB/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=rivnuts&qid=1676197855&sr=8-6

Maryalice

I have no experience of the one I posted up (or indeed any 'rivnut' tool), it was just what came up with a quick search to illustrate a possible solution.

Matt, as I said I didn't want to remove your thunder, I have both and I bought the one you suggested first and as I've got older my grip is weakening which I why I bought the other one as it's easier to use, rivnuts are brilliant.

Thanks Gents - food for thought.

If you only want to set a few rivnuts, you don't even need a tool, just a nut, bolt and a strip of metal!

Did a bit more last week. Crankcase and cowl now looking OK. Moved on to tank. Inside pickled overnight and now pretty much rust free. Gave the outside a good seeing to which sadly revealed a few pinholes.
Can anyone advise suitable solder to patch up, electrical solder doesn't want to stick?

I use sticks of lead, not easily available but I make my tanks with it and Bakers fluid, how are you heating the tank and applying the solder

maryalice wrote:I use sticks of lead, not easily available but I make my tanks with it and Bakers fluid, how are you heating the tank and applying the solder

Lead sticks I have in abundance but I thought  Bakers fluid was for use with copper/brass rather than mild steel?
Using MAPP gas and cored solder, but it doesn't 'tin' at all

I've never had a problem, you still have to make sure the surfaces are clean before soldering.

Maryalice

Been a bit busy in the woodwork department of late, restoring two chairs, followed by three set of guests over the weekend!
Back together again now. The recoil starter was a bit of a pain.





Homemade transfer wasn't so successful.



I'd sussed that the white part of the word 'Clinton' would be transparent on the transfer so painted a white stripe in the right place.  Sadly the density of the colour of the 'knapped flint' wasn't very good and the red showed through. Re-think required.