Lister A and H3 pump

Hi everyone

This is my new project she doesn't run currently no spark





thanks Keith

Ok after taking the Magneto of and giving it a really good clean we have a spark

It is a anti clock magneto can any one advise how to make sure the timing is right

I can find no marks on the fly wheel for TDC as i have seen a video that says they should be there

Any help gratefully received

Many thanks Keith

20* before TDC, find TDC, normally key facing down and turn flywheel back about 2 1/2 inches, set points to open about there and it should go.

Maybe you can't find the marks because the flywheel faces have been painted. Sometimes the marks are quite faint.

Many thanks for the responses i shall hopefully try later to see if she will run

Thanks again Keith

Well everyone after 2 days of tinkering she still will not start

the Magneto sparks on the bench but struggles when fitted to make a good spark

I have cleaned all surfaces on the mounting to the engine and to the Mag

Cleaned all the fuel tank and lift pump and have good flow of fuel to Carb

Not done anything yet with Carb

think i have the timing right

Any suggestions please

Thanks Keith

I assume you are turning it the right way? A common mistake with the A and B engine is to turn them backwards, if you place the plug lead close to the mag body do you get a good spark?

How strong is the spark outside the cylinder, how far will the spark jump, under compression if the spark is weak it generally won't work.
when you say you've cleaned all surfaces what do you mean, base of magneto to bracket should be bare metal, bracket to engine should be bare metal, take a length of wire and trap one end under the magneto, take the other end to a point that is a close to the plug as possible on bare metal, if it works you have a bad connection between the engine mating surfaces. Appletop has told you how to time it assuming your turning the engine in the right direction and you could have the magneto 180 deg out of position.

Maryalice

Many thanks for the responses

yes i believe i am turning the right way the Magneto is a anti clock version so from the governor side i am turning clockwise to try and start

the mounting bracket and block were painted but i have cleaned of all paint off to try and get a good earth

I have also cleaned the base of the mag to get a good earth

I will try again with the wire to see if this helps

Just as a matter of interest what plug should the engine have can someone advise please

Many thanks again for the help

Regards Keith

I've run my A's and B's on any plug with no issues

Hi all sorry me again

Can anyone advise how what setting should be with the Carb so i can check these

where should the needle wheel be for starting and running

What is the setting for the needle

I do have a spark at the top of the engine now having cleaned loads of excess paint away

Many thanks in advance Keith

The needle is fixed to wheel so when you unscrew it the needle lifts, from closed give the wheel 11/2 to 2 turns, close the choke ring to almost 3/4 the holes, prime the carburettor bowl until full, crank the engine and when it fires slowly close the needle wheel until the engine is running evenly, you may have to open the choke a little but Lister suggest off load to keep the choke partially closed.

Many thanks for this confirmation these are the settings i have been working with

So maybe i just don't have enough compression now as it still doesn't want to run

Thanks again Keith

When you turn the flywheels by hand can you feel resistance as it hits the compression, if yes it's got enough, you haven't confirmed that the timing is not 180 degrees out. Can you upload pictures of the engine.

please see pictures as requested




I am now thinking it doesn't have enough compression as it doesn't have a great deal of resistance coming to TDC

I checked TDC trough the side cover after the inlet opens and crank key way is also at the bottom as per other peoples comments

will upload more pictures also after this

Thanks again Keith

more pictures

Last lot of pictures

Thanks again Keith

Have you tried squirting some petrol in the plug hole then replacing the plug and cranking it, or even just squirting some into the air intake. Another thought, when you turn the engine over are the valves opening and closing correctly and is there clearance under the valves when they are at rest and finally lift a valve with a screw driver and then release it, does it snap shut.

Have you tried squirting some petrol in the plug hole then replacing the plug and cranking it, or even just squirting some into the air intake. Another thought, when you turn the engine over are the valves opening and closing correctly and is there clearance under the valves when they are at rest and finally lift a valve with a screw driver and then release it, does it snap shut.

Ok so valves seemed fine so went ahead and pulled the barrel and i think the issue is no compression and will also need some new rings as 2 broke trying to remove them




so now to work out the best plan going forward

Can anyone advise what the bore dimensions should be and also for the piston

Photos below




Thanks Keith

From what I can see a new set of rings and a glaze busting tool will sort the problem, if your looking for a piston you will need to look in manufacturers catalogues

Yes I do hope so but hope its not to worn

As mine is a later model it has a 4 inch piston and i only see standard rings for sale

Thanks again for your help

Keith H wrote:Yes I do hope so but hope its not to worn

As mine is a later model it has a 4 inch piston and i only see standard rings for sale

Thanks again for your help

Try Cox and Turner Engineering or F.W. Thornton.

All well after stripping the engine down and buying new parts and honing the barrel we have no better compression, so she won't run after a lot of trying

Does anyone know of any companies that can rebore and either reline or source new piston as well

I live in Daventry Northamptonshire

Or does anyone have a Barrel they no longer need

Or any other suggestions how to overcome this problem

Many thanks Keith

One big source of loss of compression is poorly seating valves, I have read through the replies and I can't see a mention of the valve seats being re-ground with grining paste so that they seat well.