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Petter A11

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braydh
biomed32uk
Foden
WolLisPet
Andrew1971
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Post by braydh Fri Mar 22 2013, 16:22

Just a few pics as i thought i would have a look today see whats what have removed and checked mag which is working well will just need a good clean
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Not a great pic but you can see not great

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one very stuck valve

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sorry about the really poor quality of the photos came in as the rain started but did get time to clear some of the muck off and free the valve

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Post by Andrew1971 Fri Mar 22 2013, 18:45

Hi All
Have you noticed it all way's the exhaust valve that stick's open.
Hope you get the engine going soon Very Happy
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Post by braydh Fri Mar 22 2013, 20:40

Have had a look at bottom end which seems ok , bore not too bad just needs de glazing think im going to end up doing a full stripdown although i may put it back together and run as is for now obviously with a bit of a clean up until later in the year

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Post by nutgone Fri Mar 22 2013, 22:18

Bit of GT85 will soon have that valve moving again. Very Happy

TBH she doesn't look too bad. Wish I was on the road again, I would pop over now & again, see what you're up to. I will be getting my car back on the road again at some point. I've just got to stop spending all my money on engines & engine related stuff! Embarassed

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Post by Guest Sat Mar 23 2013, 11:22

Good to hear that there's nothing seriously wrong with the engine. If it has a stuck valve you could find that the riston rings are sticking also so it could be worth while taking the piston out to have a look.

Keep up the great work, I think you'll have it up n running in no time.

Stu.

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Post by braydh Mon Mar 25 2013, 13:42

Good news is both mags work well one cleaned up nicely
Petter A11 Petter16

Have also manages to get flywheel and pulley of ok

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Inside of petrol tank is very mucky looks like somethings been living in there . Next job cylinder off have a look at the rings there seems to be slight end float is that normal or am i looking at a possible problem ?

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Post by Guest Tue Mar 26 2013, 12:43

As long as it's not to much end float you should be ok, most engines have a bit of play and run no problem although one of my engines did and it ended up leaking oil so that could be something to watch in the furure with yours, mine I just wipe off the oil for now LOL.

Stu.

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Post by nutgone Tue Mar 26 2013, 13:44

Yeah, plenty of these old engines develop end float in old age. I've had some which have been quite considerable, but they still ran OK.

Was this end float after you started taking it to bits? Sometimes it disappears when it's all back together.

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Post by WolLisPet Tue Mar 26 2013, 15:33

I have recently restore a A1 as well. I also experienced a sticky valve, but my biggest headache was that the magneto was missing. Eventually I found a different Wico, which was not fitting, because it was sticking against the engine block. I had to re-drill the base plate of the magneto and adjust every thing accordingly. I hope to start the engine within the next month or two.

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Post by braydh Wed Mar 27 2013, 00:22

Glad to hear end float should be ok more good news the barrel is of the rings are ok there is slight damage on piston looks like at some time something went in the cylinder nothing major enough to be of concern the piston took a bit of cleaning grooves were very gunked up and will be removing piston as i think there is a lot of crud built up behind the oil holes and now its stripped this much may as well go all the way which also means i will be stripping paint rubbing down and repainting just need to decide on colour am thinking of avoiding green as the wife says green !!!!! :stick lol: :stick lol: but may go for grey

The only issue i have is the exhaust valve was really badly corroded after a clean up the pitting is bad so will require a bit of effort then the seat grinding will be the same but am really enjoying this the only bit im not so happy about is the old oil which is really bad but thats probably the case on most old working engines

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Post by Guest Wed Mar 27 2013, 12:52

Ray have you no mechanical engineers near you as they would reface the vavle for you and save a lot of work. Sounds as if the rest of the engine should be ok to rebuild once it's all cleaned up and oil ways checked and cleaned.

Also just a reminder old paint could be lead based so wear a mask when rubbing down.

Stu.

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Post by braydh Wed Mar 27 2013, 14:16

Have a few places i could take it but im quiet happy to spend the time on it Stu and thanks for reminder on old paint as its always easy to get carried away and forget what hazards you could be dealing with although it not going to be too bad as most of the paint is just flaking off and whatever the engine had smothering it ( a sticky residue containing dirt straw and all sorts ) seems to have had a good effect on preserving the metal it is rusty but only light surface in general .


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Post by Guest Thu Mar 28 2013, 13:02

That's going to be ok for you if the paint is coming off easy, saves a little on the elbow grease LOL.

Looking forward to hearing how you get on and some more pics (of coarse LOL)

Stu.

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Post by braydh Thu Mar 28 2013, 17:45

Have piston off there was / is some burnt on oil which was the blocking oil holes will do some pics and will try get them in focus lol!

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Post by braydh Mon Apr 01 2013, 02:17

As can be seen have done some work on the engine more stripped down some cleanup underway , the valve seats and area around were in a bad way but have made a start on cleaning and regrinding sorry i need a new camera
Petter A11 Pettera11stripping002_zpsb868ba1d

piston mostly cleaned think engine may have overheated at some time as the oil has been badly burnt on but cleans up ok with a bit of effort
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Petter A11 Pettera11stripping006_zpsa18d7d97
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oh and whats this i found glad i stripped it now ( in case you cant tell its a small ball bearing)
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by the looks of some damage i have found looks as if at some time something has been through the cylinder markings on head and mark down the side of piston luckily nothing that cannot be rectified

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Post by Foden Mon Apr 01 2013, 12:13

The ball bearing will most likely be from the magneto governor pushrod, they are often missing as they can drop out when the mag is removed.

Pete.

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Post by braydh Tue Apr 02 2013, 01:12


Thanks for that Pete i was a bit of a loss as to where it was from , think it may be time i had a look at a manual !! Hopefully will get some time to finish stripdown so i can clean everything up it is pretty bad in the crankcase and i will have to scrape the bottom out i did try to take a pic of it but just couldnt get one where you could actually see anything

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Post by braydh Wed Apr 10 2013, 18:26

Engine etc all rubbed down and started on undercoating will be trying to smooth out some of the areas that have suffered severe pitting
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hopefully the weather warming up a bit will speed things up a bit

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Post by biomed32uk Wed Apr 10 2013, 20:38

For smoothing out pits and other imperfections Cellulose Knifing Filler/Fine Suface Filler as used on car bodywork is the stuff.

Just done the chain guard on the D I am restoring which was badly pitted, go over with that, rub down, blow a light coat of paint on, see where the imperfections are and repeat until you are happy.

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Post by braydh Wed Apr 10 2013, 20:49

Funny thing was areas were completely clean when i took the dirt of paint came away with dirt no rust completely bare clean metal other places were more what you would expect of an engine this age ( dated to 29/04/1947 ) can only assume that some of the ingredients in the dirt ( which was fairly moist and sticky ) had preserved some areas rather well .

And thanks for the filler advice i will see how things are when all the undercoat has dried off completely and will give it a rub down .

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Post by nutgone Wed Apr 10 2013, 22:48

I usually brush on a couple of thick layers of red-oxide primer, sand it right back, then repeat if necessary, to fill in pits. The thing is, at the end of the day, it's not going to be seen that close up, & a few rust pits are to be expected.

If you're spraying though you need to use that fine filler, as it would probably take you ages to fill in pits with thin spray coats.

My magneto which came with the Kohler was quite badly pitted, I think it took 3 coats of red oxide, rubbing right back between coats, & it looked pretty good. I didn't get rid of all the imperfections, but how far do you want to go?

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Post by braydh Wed Apr 17 2013, 14:01

Been doing a few bits on engines everything is pretty much ready for re-assembly have a few gaskets to sort out most of the pitting has filled in ok once i get topcoat on dont think it will be visible mechanically cant see much wrong only damage that may affect running of engine is the main bearing but i think it will be ok oh and the cork on tap has had it lol!

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as you can see i got wet good job undercoat was dry and there are some non petter parts there engine and tank mount for this

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wth thats over shinny

Carb was stripped and cleaned and has come up nicely

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so am at the point of doing a loose fit to make sure im happy with everything then some top coat and rebuild my biggest headache has and is the cylinder rusting around the valves has been a pain and there wasnt a valve seat to speak of for the inlet valve and the valve itself was in poor condition but ok now

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Post by braydh Tue Jun 04 2013, 17:07

Just a quick update got a bit bored so put this together see how it went https://youtu.be/597JVdDU9oQ

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Post by Guest Wed Jun 05 2013, 12:30

Nice job Ray, you've done a great job with the paint work all worth it in the end.

Way to go, 👍 👍

Stu.

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Post by Lewis MacRae Wed Jun 05 2013, 17:07

Looks good, did you strip the paint right down or just smooth it flush?

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