Ruston 6PS

My latest restoration project is this Rushton 6 ps ( Power starter ) it is a twin cylinder engine one of which is a compressor used to charge a vessel to kick start a larger engine.

My father saw it on a farm and put me in touch with the owner. It was seized and missing the float bowl on the carb but he was willing to sell it.
After stripping head off the piston was half way down the bore so I soaked it in diesel and over the next week would gently rock the flywheel each night and it released. The bore is fine and rings are not to bad although after grinding in the valves it is still a bit low on compression so will try and get replacements now I have had some advice from other forum members.



I managed to find a solex carb on ebay which was the same body as the one fitted so we are good to go.



As you can see from picture I have cleaned up all what I had removed and I am temporarily putting it back together to get running then will strip it back again to rub down and paint it properly.
Will keep you all updated with progress as hoping to get it on the rally field this but working away at the moment which is hindering progress.
I would be interested to hear from anyone who has had any experience with these engines.

I've no experience of the 6PS but plenty with the smaller 2PS. Have you checked the big ends? If they are like the 2PS, watch the shims. They need to be fitted very carefully as any trapped in the gap will stress the whitemetal shells and can lead to cracking. You may find it pumps oil out of the compressor side air outlet. I don't see a plate on the crankcase door but the serial number (six figure) will be stamped in the end of the crank. Looks to be a later 40's or 50's engine. Made from '29 to '65ish with over 6000 produced. Used for starting bigger Diesel Engines so unusual to find one on a Farm. Normally found in Diesel Railway Locomotives, Excavators and Municipal Engine Houses etc.

I have had main piston out and big end seems fine. One thing though how tight should I torque the big end shims bolts up as don't want to over tighten them. I haven't had compressor side out so maybe should check.
Thanks for advice on serial as have been struggling to date engine. I have sent pics to Ray Hooley but no joy so if I can locate number on end of crank he will be able to do it.
Not sure on why it was on a farm should of asked but didn't really know what it's purpose was at the time just liked the look of it. I haven't seen one before.
Cheers
Ian

Provided its shimmed right, then do up big end bolts tight. Don't have a torque figure, maybe Nuts has some rough figures for the size of bolts used. To check the shim thickness required, assemble the big end, minus the shims and just nip the nuts. Check the gap with feeler gauges and ensure shims are the same thickness or alter accordingly. What plans do you have for the engine? The museum where I volunteer are looking for a 6PS to replace the original removed before the trust took over.

Ok Will double check shim gaps before I go to much further. I am hoping to take it to rally's when completed I have two listers an A and D and want something different to run. Not really looking to shift it on just yet.

No probs. are you anywhere near the South of England? We will be having a do in the Autumn and would like a running 6PS there.

I am in somerset would be interested if its completed by then and not to far. What's the location.

Winchester, a fair trek but not too far. Somerset Levels by any chance? Engine could have been starter for a drainage pump set.

looking fun
cant wait to watch this one coming together
kev

Success I haven't posted against this project for a while as I got sidetracked with another project but now back together. Valves reseated and new rings. the once seized engine now breaths again as tonight for the first time in several decades she fired up and ran. Only ran it for a few seconds as no water in the cylinder as its tank cooled and not connected but she's a runner.
Now to strip again to give a proper clean up. Get on a trolley and paint up and get cooling tank sorted. It's been a long time happening but now to get on with it. One happy chappy
Links not working on earlier posted pictures so feast your eyes on this beauty.

starting to come together now .

Does sort of apeal to me in a funny way ... Matt

it not a style we see every day
and it does seam to be getting more and more appealing as its going together
looks like your getting along well at this time mate
keep it up ,soon be swinging it over
kev

I'm sure I saw a very similar engine running a progressive cavity pump made by Mono (Manchester) back in the early 2000's in Uganda - moving about 20 cubic meters of water out of low lying fields to a man made bund about 15 meters away (and 5 m high) - but it had a locally manufactured square top hopper that had a recess/ shaft for the vales to remain dry..... as Kev says - yup - this is a pretty litltle number - nice job on the restoration - and Winchester is close for me.......

best

Hamish

Yes should be a slightly different engine on the showground. Just need to sort trolley, cooling tank and clean and paint so will keep me busy for a while but would like to get it ready for winchester if possible.
Heres A short video

Link to video not working above view this one

https://youtu.be/krJZenG6CBs

Coming along nicely  It would be great to see it at Twyford! Our chief engineer would be over the moon. So far we have 5 2PS's coming so a 6PS would be very nice too. The event is on the 6th October at Twyford Waterworks, Winchester. Look up their facebook page or website to see whats been going on.

Yes I will do. I would definitely bring it down if complete. I Will check out website and try and arrange it and that will give me something later this year to aim for.

Well had a flat out weekend and few hours over last couple of days and I am moving along nicely. If I can finish may even take it to Isleport for one of the days at weekend and give her a decent run





Ian.

Blimey! Fantastic work Ian   Hope it goes well at the rally.

Mark

Looks good!

Only thing I will add is you might want some rubber hose and cut a joint into your top and bottom pipes for the cooling tank, might find the vibrations will split the tank over time.

Ok great thanks for advice will try and source some and put in a joiner. Always learning.

Ian.

Need one top and bottom, I would go as close to the tank as you can, that way the engine will take the weight of the pipe, not the tank itself. Also have you fitted a drain tap?

Yes there is a drain on engine and I have another that I am going to cut into tank so I can drain tank separately.

Thanks Mark. I have been in contact with the clerk at twyfords regarding October so hopefully see you there.

Ian.

You can get car hoses called rony-flex which have a corrugated piece in the middle. Better than ordinary hose but that would do. Some factors sell it by the metre heater/radiator hose, go on pipe internal diameter if I remember correctly.

Look forward to seeing you at Twyford, although you are a third further away than me, your journey should be about the same time!

All Best

Mark