1918 Amanco Hired Man igniter

Hi

We have a 1918 Hired Man. What is the rest state of the "igniter" when the engine is off, should it be open or closed? If we set it to closed we cannot get the engine to start at all. If we set it to open the engines starts but runs extremely rough, practically jumping around with a mind if it's own.

Any guidance is appreciated.

I have downloaded the manual off internalfire.com but is doesn't explain much about the igniter, very useful for start routines though.

Is it a Hit and miss or a tthrottle governed engine? You using a mag or battery coil? Battery coil the points would have to be open at rest and a mag points should be closed.

Have you checked the valve timing as well?

Matt

Hi Matt

It is a Hit and Miss running a Mag.

Nope, haven' checked the valve timing, the engine was running fine before transporting to our museum

I don't know much, if anything about amancos, but have you checked the ignition timing?
was it taken apart at all for transport?

Hi Callum

After diving into Harry's Old Engine website I found this

When operating the IOWA Engine on batteries, the igniter points should be held apart by small coil spring attached to the igniter hammer stop and to the left hand post on the igniter body. There are two of these posts, one on either side of and just below the movable electrode, which electrode comes through the center of the igniter body. Either the "open" or "closed" post of the igniter points can be used for operating engine on magneto. However, the "closed" post is generally better for magneto ignition. This "closed" position is obtained by changing the spring from the left hand post to the right hand post. The igniter points should separate about one-sixteenth (1/16) inch, which we have not checked yet.

At Matt

The exhaust valve timing is horrendously off, our clearance is closer to 1/2 inch (below is also off Harry's Old Engine)

Turn flywheel slowly and see that the exhaust valve opens when the crankshaft is at an angle of 40 or 45 degrees above its "outer" dead
center. By screwing IN the adjusting screw in the end of the valve lever, the valve will open EARLIER and close LATER. By turning this adjusting screw OUT, the valve will open LATER and close EARLIER. There should be a clearance of about 1/32 to 1/10 of an inch between the end of this adjusting screw and the end of the exhaust valve stem when the engine is compressing its charge-perinitting the valve to fit squarely into its seat.

So I reckon time to sit down and give the entire engine a working over regarding all settings. Unfortunately we only get to the engine at weekends as it stands at the Museum about 75km's from my house. We are planning to go there on Sunday so I will give feedback Monday.

Regarding the exhaust timing I will check mine and take some pictures over weekend for you , as I'm sure exhaust should close around 5 before TDC before inlet stroke starts

Matt

Oh also on the cam gear there is 2 proud dots that line up with 1 dot on the crank gear.

Matt

What makes you think it is the igniter?

On my Chore Boy the points are closed (break open to fire) and it running a low tension mag as well. Even though it is low tension the mag needs to be timed.

Had a good go at her this weekend and we finally have some results. We bypassed the magneto. Igniter to fluorescent tube capacitor, to battery +'ve, battery -'ve to fluorescent tube capacitor, then to earth on engine. Fires up and runs for about 45 seconds then putters out.

Running with igniter in open at rest position

Question 1 - can the florescent tube keep the required "power" to the ignite?
Question 2 - we now suspect we may have fuel starvation issues. If we spray quick start into the inlet valve as it operated it seems to want to go for while longer

Advise, tips and criticisms greatly accepted.

I hope that by fluorescent tube capacitor you actually mean fluorescent tube choke.

Your engine should run happily on a tube choke. What size battery are you using?

I have better results running low tension engines on a car ignition coil using the primary coil wired the same as a choke and using 12 volts.

There is not a great deal to the Amanco mixers or carb. Strip and clean the carb,and the rest of the fuel system the non return valve would be my favourite suspect.

They are not fussy engines but tend to be happiest when the fuel outlet from the tank is level with the fuel intake for the mixer.

If you have timed the the crank gear to the cam gear correctly........meshing the brass dots......or aligning the timing marks your engine will not be far away.

The manual you downloaded will tell you how to set the mag.......do not have the mag wired to the ignitor at the same time as your choke or you will damage it.

Do not over concern yourself with the gap at the exhaust valve. When the engine is running you can play with it and set it where it suits.

Thanks a ton billypurves the engine is at the museum (about 70 km's from my house) so I don't get to see it everyday.