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Amanco rebuild early days

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Post by chuffchuff Sun Jan 19 2020, 13:43

I'm now on with the rebuild of my Amanco. As can be seen the link lever from the governor slip ring to the pushrod is missing.
One of the governor weights is broken.
It appears that the pushrod is also non original also as the hit/miss latch part is missing and there are no securing bolt holes for the latch part.
It would be a great help to me if anyone could put me onto where I could procure the missing parts.
Unfortunately the name plate and drip feed lubricator is missing someone no doubt took a fancy to the shiny brass parts right now though its the missing governor parts that's the real concern.
At some point the engine has been converted with a HT mag and spark plug. I haven't tried the mag for a spark yet but that's not bothering me at this early stage.
The big end and main bearing are in excellent condition as is the piston, piston rings and cylinder bore, so luckily no work required there.
Amanco rebuild early days Img_2013
Amanco rebuild early days P1050821Amanco rebuild early days P1050910Amanco rebuild early days Img_2015

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Post by chuffchuff Sun Jan 26 2020, 20:59

Some painting done.Amanco rebuild early days P1060010
Amanco rebuild early days 20<a href=Amanco rebuild early days P1060011
[url=https://servimg.com/view/20153853/26]

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Post by chuffchuff Thu Jan 30 2020, 18:36

Coming on OK but it would be a real bonus for me if I could find a good or even a broken governor detent arm. Any leads to one would be very much appreciated. Cant say I'm looking forward to have to make one No

Amanco rebuild early days P1060012
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Amanco rebuild early days P1060014
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Post by Woodsman Fri Jan 31 2020, 08:54

Looking good. Thumbs Up

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Post by chuffchuff Wed Feb 05 2020, 19:02

Not too far to go now until the first fire up for at least 50 years. bounce  
I've now got the hit and miss latch mechanism sorted out. It was a far bit of work figuring it out and then fabricating the latch arm parts etc.
I'd still like to find a proper cast iron governor latch arm if anyone should know of one.
Next task is to sort out the broken and worn governor weights and get the mag sparking and properly mounted.
I'll need to fabricate a petrol tank and will be asking after the original tank dimensions.
Amanco rebuild early days P1060016
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Post by blue cat Thu Feb 06 2020, 17:59

Nice work !

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Post by mattblack Thu Feb 06 2020, 21:02

iagree

Looking good, you can be justly proud of that!

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Post by chuffchuff Thu Feb 06 2020, 21:15

Thanks Fellows, it's burned off a few hours in the workshop over the last couple of weeks much to the wife's disgust Laughing

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Post by chuffchuff Mon Feb 10 2020, 22:19

Rebuilt the ML KI mag over the weekend but I didn't realise at the time that by removing the armature this make the horse shoe magnet loose its MoJo. After rebuilding there is a spark but its very weak, I'll now need to send off the mag to have the magnet re-magnetised.

I had a search among the old mags that were high on the shelf and found that I actually have a proper low tension mag that appears to be in good condition this now gives me a bit of a dilemma as I don't have the igniter or associated push rod linkage.

Today I managed to do a repair to the broken governor weight leg I made up a brass leg for the weight, attached this to the cast iron weight by drilling and tapping both parts to 6mm and joining using a short stud, this of course means that should the new leg wear out in the next hundred years or so I can simply machine up a another new one clown Laughing  
I do hope to have a least a couple of new weights cast for me. A foundry in Middlesburgh seem interested in helping with this. Should anyone else be interested in obtaining some new  "Hired Man" governor weights then give me a shout.

Amanco rebuild early days P1050822

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Post by philipagri Tue Feb 11 2020, 10:24

You can get a lot of remade Amanco parts from various sources in The States  and you may be interested in these ignitors, price seems inline with other parts but the postage cost can be high. At least you have a magneto.
https://www.smokstak.com/forum/threads/hand-made-ignitor.198694/
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Post by chuffchuff Tue Feb 11 2020, 19:02

Thanks for that Philip.
If my ML KI mag tuns out to be working OK after re-magnetising then I'll give it a go with the mag and spark plug first  then I may revert to the LT set-up.
I still need to clean-up the LT mag and see if it's generating a spark.
Franks Tanks UK can provide an igniter for £90 plus postage I guess that's reasonable enough it would be good to hear if anyone else has used a igniter supplied from Frank's Tanks.
Thanks again.

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Post by chuffchuff Sat Feb 15 2020, 21:54

Rebuilt the LT mag today but not tested as yet it was in good internal condition, hoping the winding's are also good.

An igniter unit will soon be coming from Franks Tanks so I'll now need to suss out and make-up the missing push rod trigger parts. study

I'm thinking of winding an LT coil to use for easy starting and will look into a changeover switch system from coil to mag if  I the LT mag works, if not I'll probably stick with the HT mag and spark plug for now at least.

Not too much left to do now just finish painting the crank guard and fit then make-up a fuel tank and fuel pipe, I wont be going with the 1/4" bore fuel pipe though so won't bother with the inline fuel system check valve, make or buy a silencer and I'll also need to make-up  a wheeled trolley..... Hmmm! maybe a fair bit of work left then after all. Rolling Eyes

Amanco rebuild early days P1060022

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Post by Appletop Sat Feb 15 2020, 22:03

Won't work without a check valve. The valve is there to keep the mixer fuel ready, remove the valve and it will always suffer fuel starvation.
And no, I don't know where to get one from....
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Post by chuffchuff Sun Feb 16 2020, 15:52

Hi Villiers, I've got to disagree with you as my understanding is that the only reason the check valve is there is to prevent a backfire blowing flames or pressure/fuel back past the needle valve and up into the unusual 1/4" bore fuel pipe. No float chamber on this very very basic carburettor only the manually adjustable needle valve to control the mixture.
There are actually two check valves on ebay just now but a bit too pricey for me for old possibly dodgy ones, Franks Tanks apparently has new ones available at £35 which is cheaper than the ones on fleabay.
So far at least I'll be using small bore copper fuel pipe 1/4" OD so I very much doubt if I'll need a check valve anyhow. Time will tell no doubt.Rolling Eyes
However to keep thinks authentic I may go to the 1/4" bore fuel pipe then I will fit a check valve.
I'm still looking for the dimensions of a Amanco fuel tank as my next job will be to make up a tank, all part of the fun Laughing

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Post by Appletop Sun Feb 16 2020, 22:08

Fair enough. You do it your way and I'll do it the right way.

I'm fairly sure the guys at Amanco spent a lot of time and energy working out the fuel system and I'm sure they will be as chuffed as nuts to see someone take an engine they so lovingly built with lots of care and ignore the basics they used on the fuel system.
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Post by chrismac Sun Feb 16 2020, 22:28

chuffchuff wrote:Hi Villiers, I've got to disagree with you as my understanding is that the only reason the check valve is there is to prevent a backfire blowing flames or pressure/fuel back past the needle valve and up into the unusual 1/4" bore fuel pipe. No float chamber on this very very basic carburettor only the manually adjustable needle valve to control the mixture.
There are actually two check valves on ebay just now but a bit too pricey for me for old possibly dodgy ones, Franks Tanks apparently has new ones available at £35 which is cheaper than the ones on fleabay.
So far at least I'll be using small bore copper fuel pipe 1/4" OD so I very much doubt if I'll need a check valve anyhow. Time will tell no doubt.Rolling Eyes
However to keep thinks authentic I may go to the 1/4" bore fuel pipe then I will fit a check valve.
I'm still looking for the dimensions of a Amanco fuel tank as my next job will be to make up a tank, all part of the fun Laughing

With the fine machining you did on the pin, do you not fancy having an attempt at making one, little more that a small spring and a ball bearing you'll have it, I tend to agree with Villiers, I presumed it was to keep the fuel at the ready when the engine was on its missing revolutions but best of luck, interested to see the outcome.

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Post by maryalice Sun Feb 16 2020, 22:33

ChuffChuff,

It is a great shame that I dont live near you as I would love to see you work your socks off trying to get your engine to go with no luck all because you decided to leave the check valve off.
I would love to see how you intend to defeat gravity because your engine will suck the fuel then it will blow it back to the tank, the check valve is also there to stop it happening.
Good luck with your endevours.

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Post by blue cat Mon Feb 17 2020, 10:29

Fuel check valve
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/amanco-stationary-engine-Fuel-Valve/303489718656?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Fuel tank
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/amanco-stationary-engine-Fuel-Tank/303489701039?hash=item46a96554af:g:0LAAAOSwApleSZ6r

Igniter trip arm
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/amanco-stationary-engine-Ignotor-Striker-Arm/303489721560?hash=item46a965a4d8:g:1~AAAOSwcuNeSaEd

The above seller also has a crank guard and a pulley.

Igniter
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Amanco-Igniter-Open-Crank-Hit-Miss-Associated/143534697299?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

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Post by chuffchuff Mon Feb 17 2020, 11:45

Hi Blue Cat Many thanks for alerting me,  unfortunately I didn't notice the igniter unit on fleabay and I've already ordered a new one from Franks Tanks at £90 plus postage. Doh! Rolling Eyes    
Yesterday evening I did notice the fuel tank and fuel valve though. The fuel tank looks a wee bit rough round the edges so not too sure if I'll bid on it or not. I'm thinking of making up my own tank. I've asked the seller if the fuel valve has the ball inside so may bid on it if it is complete although it also looks as though its had a hard life too with heavy battle scars on the cap, again Franks Tanks offer a valve for £35 plus delivery. If I decide to go with 1/4" O.D. copper fuel pipe I wont bother fitting a non return valve however if I do go with the 1/4" bore fuel pipe I likely will fit a non return valve just to keep the look authentic.
Many thanks again.

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Post by Dazzla Sat Feb 29 2020, 19:48

On the subject of the non-return valve, they are actually a check valve. They aren’t to prevent blow back or anything. The idea is that the weight of the ball holds it onto the seat and this stops the fuel free flowing to the carb. When the engine sucks through the carb it unseats the ball enough to let a little fuel pass.

Agreed, the engine should have one but it’ll run fine without. I’ve got a few amancos and they all run well, and some have them fitted and some don’t.

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Post by chuffchuff Mon Mar 02 2020, 22:45

Dazala, Many thanks for clearing up the check valve question.cheers  
I'd like to fit a check valve simply to keep it original looking but not at the prices people are asking for old beaten-up suspect looking ones.
I may fit a quarter turn valve in the fuel line just to stop the fuel leaking out through the carb as I would very likely forget to fully shut in the mixture adjusting screw fully after shutting down the engine. Rolling Eyes

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Post by Dazzla Sat Mar 07 2020, 20:08

I’ve got a silencer you can have. Let me know your address and I’ll send it up.

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Post by chuffchuff Sat Mar 07 2020, 22:30

Dazzla, That's brilliant thanks.  I'll pay you for it though and the postage.  I'll send you a personal message with my address.  I can do a BACS transfer with some cash for you or send you a cheque.  Many thanks again.
I'll need to suss out how to send a personal message now. scratch

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Post by Robotstar5 Sun Mar 08 2020, 00:03

chuffchuff wrote:Dazzla, That's brilliant thanks.  I'll pay you for it though and the postage.  I'll send you a personal message with my address.  I can do a BACS transfer with some cash for you or send you a cheque.  Many thanks again.
I'll need to suss out how to send a personal message now. scratch

Click on Dazzla username and you will get a "viewing profile" page then click on the tab marked "contact"

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Post by chuffchuff Sun Mar 08 2020, 09:46

Thanks for the info Stuart.

I'm now on with the trolley wheels but I'm thinking that I should have bought cast wheels from eBay as making the wheels has been a lot of hassle and very time consuming.

I bought a hydraulic accumulator shell from a nearby scrapyard and got it cut into sections unfortunately many of the sections were way out of round and unusable. It was a lot of hours in the workshop just to produce the two wheels that you see here and I've another two to go Sad  

The second picture shows them ready for welding.

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