Lister H1 restoration

Here I go



I've actually acquired 4 pumps but one at a time  


So I've now had chance to investigate the H1 and I find that its going to be a hard one as many of the threads are seized solid.
One of the gland clamps is badly bent, I won't go into the why's etc as it won't change anything.


By bolting them back to back and with the aid of MAP gas I restored the shape.




These parts are the ones I've convinced I'm helping them  

Continued












Gets harder from here on ..........

Nice work. I keep looking for another H1 as they are nice little pumps.

Thanks Steve
I might have to find another one to combine the best parts.
With the help of my son we managed to get the valve chamber covers off. The method that we found worked was for him to hold the pump securely while I used a long breaker bar and tapped the cast iron rapidly with a hammer. These had been overtightened because they had no sealing washers
I'm going to buy a Makita 1/2" drive impact wrench for future works.
Too hot today so I've left all the seized steel parts until after my holiday break in Thirsk.




Unfortunately I found one of the valves has a sheared stud


Thinking ahead I'm not sure what is best for the gland packing as there isn't much depth for multiple layers.

This has an almighty 580nm thread breaking torque at the incredible price of under £69 delivered.
https://doublesell.co.uk/products/makita-dtw300z-18v-li-ion-lxt-brushless-impact-wrench-batteries-and-charger-not-included?variant=234519273

A cooler morning allowed me another shift.
I discovered that there was still gland packing to be removed revealing enough depth for at least three maybe four layers of 8mm graphite impregnated.

I managed to dismantle the valves and found someone who has a spare seat for the broken one. No springs in these at all.


The valve washers are all crap so I found SEP sell them  

I figured this inlet pipe was going to be a problem as it was seized and not even vertical so it had to come out.
Long bars heat and mucho hammer tapping set it free so now I have the option of keeping it with a cap or just blanking it off.






After removing most of the rust I've refitted it vertical with a greased thread for now.

These pipe plugs are all seized and spanners 7/16 AF just slide off so I need a proper 4 point socket. I found one on Amazon with free delivery from Amazon.com
Should arrive after my holiday and I'll order the rattle gun to coincide.

The curved elbow pipe on the intake is for priming the pump, it should have a brass end cap.

Thank you. I had guessed that but nice to be reassured
Looking back at earlier pictures I now see that it was at and angle because it would clash directly with the outlet pipe. This won’t be a problem for me as I can swap them around on rebuilding.

I've used a no longer wanted ISIS bicycle bottom bracket tool to make a bespoke tool for removing the pump valve bases.
I believe that with the use of a rattle gun they will come out but cannot test until Monday.








Moving on I painted and reassembled some parts, always feels good.

The transfer arms are now stripped and primed.








I'm experimenting with wicking material alternatives. This is scale rope from my model tug boats




I'm not sure what green this is as it doesn't seem to match any shade of Brunswick

When I last looked at this project I had a 1"BSP pipe that needed removing and a valve to fix.
I went and bought another bottle of MAP gas and some 24" Stilsons.
All my efforts this morning failed so I resorted to cutting most of the pipe off and cutting the pipe internally across the thread before applying an assortment of hammers. I won the battle



I've ordered a 1"BSP tap to clean the rust out of the threads.


Then the broken valve stud.
I drilled as accurately as possible all the way through the broken stud without damaging the larger diameter shoulder that the top valve grid sits on.
I then tapped it 5/16 BSW and fitted a steel stud in place for lack of a brass option.




Hopefully no more problems here on

These are lovely pumps, always a favorite on the rally field!
I bought one a couple years ago for £40 from the widow of a gentleman who who used to install Lister D's and Lister H1 pumps. The gentleman had refurbd it a few years ago, it even came with the original tool for removing the big brass bungs and valve plates.  All  the pump needed was a rub down and a coat of paint. The pump worked a treat and such a lovely thing to watch!

I'm sure that this will have the same high standard of finish that all your other projects have!
Keep up the good work!

You are very lucky there

I would love to find the original tools but considering how badly damaged many cap nuts are it's clear the neanderthals quickly lost them or didn't understand how to use them.

I only have one cap nut in good order the other two will go to scrap and I'll wait for parts to come along. I can get a pair of modern day ones to tide it over in the short term to display it. 1.5" BSP I believe and will cost under £12 delivered.

The inlet/oulet will be finished with 1"BSP to 28mm compression fittings

Thank you

I found this on you tube that seems to be all motion and no notion.
I'm sure it's only pumping on one stroke. It's also passing too much water from the packings.
A nice display non the less.

This was my Lister D and H1 pump https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4aE9cEUuCI
I was told that the gland packing should drip a little, it helps to keep the piston lubricated

That's mint! love it.
Yes a drip is what we want to lubricate the moving parts.
The guy on the previous video has sectioned a Lister D amongst others, well worth a look

Fabulous Julian

I donated a Lister D to a retired gentleman who wanted to section it, don't know if he succeeded!

68jcb wrote:I donated a Lister D to a retired gentleman who wanted to section it, don't know if he succeeded!

I certainly fancy having a go and not necessarily a Lister D but it seems it lends itself very well.

Andy,
I can almost guarantee that you will find loads of mullered caps but highly unlikely to find good ones, I have a H1 pump and have had other Lister pumps and they all have buggered caps, the pipe wrench has a lot to answer for. Making the male hex cap is easy but the female hex would have to be cast or spark eroded and cost lots.

Maryalice

There is a working Lister D that's become open crank engine and it works, its laid on its side.

For those who wish to preserve their valve chamber caps a suitable available tool fits perfect. £7.50 Amazon prime.

So the threads especially this one that was seized are pretty poor. I 've been putting off buying a 1"BSP tap as they are so very expensive but I got the last one on eBay at under £27 delivered. I'm glad I did its a great bit of kit and so well made despite being from China






A second run through with the cleaned up tap

First coat of paint


Air chamber plug drilled out and replaced with brass

Looking good!

Thank you.

There is a lot of play in the drive end assembly so it's important to make sure the drive shaft is aligned with a straight edge before tightening the four nuts, otherwise the transfer arms will bind.




Air chamber after filling the bad casting holes with P38, priming and first coat.


I've smoothed the surface of the piston with emery cloth in the lathe


Now ready to make the packings






Should have it largely back together tomorrow