1938 Lister 23D2H pump set

Cheers Neil rain all day here so not much stripping going on


Time not wasted
Valves done

Only a short morning, wife wanted to go to the meerkat 241 movies
I can see the end of the stripping in sight.

Another day of all day rain so no stripping but I made progress with gaskets and some assembly
Separated these to make paint removal easier.
















Piston assembly cleaned

Very cold weather ensures the cast iron remains cold despite an oil filler radiator but I continue the painting with a first coat of gloss.
Splash plate and piston refitted after honing the bore.




Only the flywheel remains to strip


I ironed out all the misshapen bits of the tank straps


Here we go



Two more days should see the block back on the trolley and begin reassembly.

Heating upgraded and it keeps my drink HOT








No more paint to strip until I start on the H1 pump


Back on the trolley tomorrow

This morning I had only a couple of hours play time but quality fun as assembly moves on a pace.


I read in the great man's book that the big end must have the flush face towards the crankshaft web.




I use this oil when its reduced to £11 on Amazon


Ready for the timing case






Ready for the head, both faces of gasket greased.


Regulator inserted.


New washers 7/16 ID




Magneto platform NOT forgetting the captive third bolt!


Unfortunately I had to go home to accept deliveries at this point.

This engine being over 800 rpm is fitted with the 12" flywheel. I intend to paint this fully as it is not meant to drive a belt.


I also don't intend to run the engine at its 1000 rpm as the pump won't ever be asked to shift large volumes of water at speed.
I'll experiment with what sounds best around 500 rpm. I'm reading that a lower rpm is helped by advancing the timing 10 degrees, also covered in David's book

Not that it matters with your engine Andy but my D flywheels have always been painted and driven various machinery with both flat and V belts, the paint has never moved so you can rest easily on that score.

Pete.

Thanks Pete

A new timing chain dispensed with 2 of the 3 shims


I made a new bracket for the extra petrol filter. I know these were often fitted directly to the crankcase but it's my preference.




More parts second coated










Should be doing the pump soon after I finish the petrol tank.

Now was a good time to fit the pump to check shaft alignment before tightening the engine bolts




First coat on the flywheel


Regulator rods refitted with a new correct size Thackery washer








Today I've applied the PETSEAL treatment to the petrol tank which must now be kept constantly warm for 7 days, during which time I'll be painting the outside in stages.

Petseal was OK this morning and must continue to cure 6 more days


Meanwhile painting continues
It will take four stages to apply two coats on the tank




Flywheel finished

My hopper cover fixings had been bodged to 3/8 BSW I decided to restore them to 5/16


This was successful


Decals fitted




Petrol tank final coat done


I'm awaiting some parts but hope to be firing up soon

I'm waiting for copper crush washers for the carb and a stainless exhaust pipe to complete the engine.


Speedpak from china probably quicker than Royal Mail

Copper washers arrived but only 1.5mm thick so I may need to double up on the upper one.
Just the exhaust tube now to fire up.


Also this cannot be the original float bowl is it was set at 20 degrees off vertical. With the aid of va blow torch I removed the offset.

Quite a bit of wear on the transfer arm bushes but even more so on the cross bar that I'm going to reproduce new (steel bar ordered).
The lower drain plug opening has a chunk of iron missing that I've cosmetically repaired with JB weld

It's looking lovely, you must be pleased with the finish!
You were lucky to straighten the float bowl, the last time I tried a bit of heat on one to remove the screw cap, it started to melt! I tend to soak them in WD40 for a day or two now.

Yes the paint is quality thanks. I'm thinking of buying a shipping drum like an oil drum but with removable lid. For show it needs to shift a LOT of water like it would as a duty.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321813314411?hash=item4aed917b6b:g:BS4AAOSwPcVVr3Y4

Practical completion today as the stainless pipe arrived. I know not everyone's cup of tea but it is mine. I don't anticipate any problem starting.
Ready to run maybe tomorrow or Thursday




Pump body stripped and painted


I'm still waiting for round bar to make a new cross bar


This rear lower valve chamber drain plug is in my experience going to shear off. The metal is soft and my solution is to drill it through from behind 8mm will do and re tap it 1/8" BSPT from the front.




Sorted with a new brass plug

I've postponed crank up as on first fill with petrol now that there are no blockages 2 of the 4 solder olive joints will not seal.
I've ordered 4 new ends to make up new pipes. Meanwhile having received a good tip on Facebook I will attempt to resurrect the old olives
My problem is they are silver soldered but a clever fella on Facebook advised me to cut them off close and drill through them

I then figured I can use the drill bit shank to grip them in the lathe jaws without crushing and reface them.
I will try this tomorrow along with making the new H1 cross bar that arrived today by EVRI

Looks like I'm not recycling the olives


However my hobby lathe did quite well near the limit of its ability.

Thank you Blue Cat the part arrived this morning

Having learnt from the previous H1 pump its important to check and adjust if necessary the fit of the gland packing plates.
These were ok this time


So I proceeded with assembly using 2 rings of 8mm square graphite impregnated for each end.


The drill is there for scale as many don't realise just how small the H1 is unless its side by side with its very much bigger H2 H3 family members


I've used these PTFE washers for the valve chamber caps. They take some careful easing past the thread to sit in the recess behind.






Then all good

Almost there


I had to buy the transfer arm grease cups as someone had replaced them with grease nipples




I'm still waiting for petrol pipe parts to complete.

Sounds like me after I've run upstairs!
Nice work Andy

Thanks Paul
Might be petrol tight tomorrow