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Villiers 11C Two Stroke rebuild

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Villiers 11C Two Stroke rebuild Empty Villiers 11C Two Stroke rebuild

Post by Woodsman Fri Nov 21 2014, 16:36

Having pretty much completed the MK10 project we have decided to make a start on the Allen Scythe.

I'll post some stage by stage stuff but we could do with some help.

Firstly, there seems to be very little info' around on the web regarding this model. If anyone has any manuals, exploded diagrams etc that they could share we would be most grateful, Secondly, and maybe more importantly, we are pretty much convinced that the piston is seized. This model has a one piece barrel - no cylinder head, so we can't even start by removing same, applying Plus Gas and then braying with a lump of wood. Any suggestion gratefully received. Thanks

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Villiers 11C Two Stroke rebuild Empty Re: Villiers 11C Two Stroke rebuild

Post by kevjhnsn Sat Nov 22 2014, 12:12

as your trying with the oil down the plug hole, if your looky you maybe able to get some down the exhurst and inlet ports also if you have acess to heating equipment,like a gas blowtourch, then try heating it up nice and steady al over the piston area and allowing it to cool again and also adding more lube before cold again, this will help the oily stuff to work into the enlarged gaps while at the same time cracking some rust to help the freeing off process, it maybe take a few weeks to free it off ,but you maybe looky and have it in a few days
kev

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Post by Woodsman Sun Nov 23 2014, 10:44

Cheers Kev, my thoughts exactly - will do.
Having detached the engine I had look into the hole left in the scythe. If I twiddle the exposed gear then the lump that actuates the cutter bar moves so I think things are OK inside. Interestingly, it looks like there is a lot of phosphor-bronze in there - so if all else fails I might get a few quid from a scrap yard Smile

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Post by Woodsman Wed Nov 26 2014, 14:02

Decided that, if heat was required, I would fire up one of my old school blowlamps. I'd forgotten how scary it was getting it going - flames and smoke and soot everywhere until the vapouriser heats up. But once it's going it puts these newfangled butane jobbies to shame.

Villiers 11C Two Stroke rebuild MK25_12_zps3ab6aaea

A little advice/help required:
This little item acts as a mounting point for the cowl (via the two large nuts) the other end screws into a hole that goes right through into the cylinder bore. Seems rather strange if all its for is to attach the cowl? Any ideas?

Villiers 11C Two Stroke rebuild MK25_14_zpsf39cb838

Villiers 11C Two Stroke rebuild MK25_13_zpscd49b6d1

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Post by Woodsman Sun Nov 30 2014, 14:25

Whilst waiting for piston to free up, we took a look at the magneto. The coil seems to be a later replacement as LT to contract breaker is connected with modern green/yellow earth wire. Sadly HT is open circuit so we will need a new one. Without manual we don't know the part number but maybe someone can identify it from dimensions:

Core length           88.9mm - 3 1/2"
Core diameter        14.3mm - 9/16"
Winding length       65.6mm - 2 1/2"
Winding diameter    38.3mm - 1 1/2"

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Post by Darryl Ovens Sun Nov 30 2014, 21:31

No expert on Villiers, but!  Smile
On that cowl mount I think I've seen a decompression valve fitted into that "boss" where the mount is screwed in, esp when fitted to motorcycles.  I guess it was a convenient place to put a mount as there was probably a plug there already.

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Post by Woodsman Mon Dec 01 2014, 10:07

Thanks Darryl good idea. I wonder how close the 11C design is to to MK11s found on motorbikes. Maybe a motorbike engine manual would be close enough for finding spares.
However, piston is still seized solid and magneto coil is open circuit on HT side so I may well break it for bits and scrap the rest. Will give it another few weeks of heat and Plus Gas and see what happens.

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Post by Darryl Ovens Mon Dec 01 2014, 20:29

If you are faced with scrapping it you could (as a last resort), try hydraulic-ing it out.  Ie fill the combustion chamber with some fluid, ie oil grease water, (get all the air out, to prevent it going off like a canon!) and then slowly pump more fluid in.  What fluid you use usually depends on what small pump is available, grease gun is commonly used, however they can generate high pressures and it is quite possible to burst the cylinder with a grease gun.  On the other hand if you are faced with scrapping it you have little to loose, (apart from the grease).  It will stop when the exhaust port is uncovered, put at least that means it has started moving.

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