Villiers 25HS powered generator

Alanengine wrote:
Love to get hold of some info on this unit or even a wiring diagram of similar generators.
Anyone any ideas?

Alan

Have you tried Allam themselves - you might get lucky.

Thanks for the thought although Allan are long gone, late 70's early 80's I believe.
I would imagine it's wiring would/could be similar to many generators of this style and output - will keep searching!

Alan

This company Allam Generators, https://find-and-update.company-information.service.gov.uk/company/05620647 exist at companies house and are based in Hull, Graces Guide list the same named company in 1974.

Maryalice

https://www.allam.com/

Thanks guys, I had found those mentioned but don't believe they are related to or acknowledge the original company.
I shall give them a call though.
Found a wiring diagram today for a similar rated unit it shows two output windings in series and an exciter winding for the rotor supply via a couple of diodes. Buzzed out my unit's wiring and it would seem that's exactly what I have.

Alan

I phoned Allam and at their suggestion emailed them but to date I haven't had a response.
Had most of my order turn up (waiting on crank bearings) so first off was to pull in the new valve guides, they were a couple of thou under size at the lower end so located well. Quite tight but I didn't have to take a reamer to the bores, then ground the valves in.
Did a final wash up of all engine castings in hot water and detergent and blew them all dry with airline. Started to loosely assemble what I can, so at least it looks a bit like an engine! It's now in a big plastic bag to keep it all clean! and I have a lot less bits laying about.
In amongst the spares I got are 2 cork seals for the petrol tap (pull on type) although I haven't a clue how to remove the centre rod to fit it (them?) and they appear much too big - do they soften enough to go in the bore of the valve? Or have I got some wrong parts?
Also noticed a split in the gauze filter, it could still be used by shortening it but once again, not sure how it's fitted/secured into the petrol tap?

Alan

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ipT85FDYFtI

Filter gauze

Thanks for the links guys, as you can see the corks are massive! With regards to my filter it has a crack at its base so there's plenty of 'good filter' left so will cut the good bit off and remove old bit and resolder.

Alan

Looks like you have 1/2" cork washers, you probably need the 3/8" cork washers.
Type ewarts 3/8 into ebay search. New brass filters are also available.

Some ewarts plungers come apart by unscrewing, but some don't come apart as the knurled knob is rivitted on. If yours is one of these you may need do a bit of engineering or buy a complete new plunger.

Think your right, they do look like 1/2 inch ones!
Today seemed (a bit) warmer than the last few days and I wanted to get some topcoat on some parts, namely the generator case and end cap, petrol tank, main engine case and the trolley/base frame. These had all been brought back to bright steel treated with a rust killer, should anything be left and etch primed.
I sprayed all the parts in the garden using a NATO green military paint. I did wonder as I was setting it all up if I was going to be wasting my time, paint was thinned (10% max) but still seemed thick as it was about 5 degrees.
It turned out really well, most surprised! I went for the satin finish which I think will suit the final generator unit.

Alan

As I'm still waiting on bearings I have been having a sort of dummy assembly of engine shroud, carb exhaust etc and although the original engine colour was green (and I had intended to keep it green) I am kind of liking the engine castings in natural alloy colour.
Obviously from a preservation perspective the castings will need some sort of corrosion protection, I'm thinking of some sort of lacquer or similar.
Anyone used anything with successful results?

Alan

Alanengine wrote:
Anyone used anything with successful results?
Alan

For cast iron I like Danish/Teak oil but I've used Autotec HT lacquer previously - seems OK.

Thanks for that I like the idea of Danish oil, I have used it on wooden radio cases but as I only have oak colour I think I should source some clear!

Alan

Alanengine wrote:I should source some clear!

Alan

Wilko £5 / litre

Woodsman, I think they have had a price increase - went today now £11!

Alan

Alanengine wrote:Woodsman, I think they have had a price increase - went today now £11!

Alan

I was thinking of teak oil -  they are both tung / linseed oil based with some volatile thinners.

https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/wilko-teak-oil-1l/p/0210404

See also my  thread: Rust Prevention

Thanks once again for the info.
Today I had a look at the points assembly, this had a non existent spring arm for the lubrication pad. I managed to get hold of the spring steel arm and drilled out the rivets replacing it with my new part this time held in with 6ba screws, loctited nuts with the thread end rivited over with one of the screws head reduced in diameter to take the points spring.
And now if I may a couple of questions!
The parts list shows a cover over the assembly but I can't fathom out how it would be held on? also the lubrication felt pad I guess must be wired on as there is a hole in the end of the spring arm but on both the above the parts diagrams are not explicit enough for answers!
Anyone got any detailed photos or information that could help?

Alan

The points housing cover is held in place with the this post and clip arrangement:



The felt pad on my MK20 looks like it's glued on?

Thanks mattblack, didn't know what to look for on the parts list but now you have shown me the cover is secured by the 'clip and pillar'!
Mine is missing both parts so will have to see what's available or make something.
My lubricator spring arm has a hole in the end and I wondered if a felt block could be wired on or held in place with a split pin. I have a block of felt I have in mind but it's already oily otherwise gluing sounds the most straightforward.
I believe your engine is identical to mine other than the bore.
Thanks again.

Alan

Have a look here...

http://www.villiersparts.co.uk/ignition.html

Thanks woodsman - I now have some more parts on order!
I noticed on some engines there is a hinged cooling air deflector mounted on the cowling. Needless to say mine was missing and I haven't been able to find out much about it so spent a bit of time making up a similar looking deflector. Unpainted as yes but it's in stainless steel so might leave as is!

Alan

Santa was a bit late with my presents but yesterday received crank bearings and points cover and clip so had a bit of assembly today.
Bearings came from Villiers spares and seemed ok with metal cage and rivets, all seemed to go together well. When it came to valve clearance I was surprised to find no existing shims? I stoned the dents out of the valve lifters as this was making feeler gauge use difficult, inlet was fine at 8 thou but had to take a bit off the exhaust valve stem to get the same.
When it came to ignition timing I found some parts to position on piston crown with the head nipped up as shown to give the required 3/16 before tdc, then slid the flywheel round until points just opened as checked on an ohm meter. Then locked up the flywheel but - but it moved! So had to undo and start again, this time it was ok.
Ther was a mark on the flywheel rim which didn't appear to line up with anything on the casting so have put my own mark to indicate the timing.
Why Villiers didn't key the flywheel to crank though?



More assembly next year!
Happy (er) New Year to you all.

Alan

Alanengine wrote:
Ther was a mark on the flywheel rim which didn't appear to line up with anything on the casting so have put my own mark to indicate the timing.
Alan

Yup - marks on flywheel are only any use if you don't remove the flywheel! IIRC the MK40 is keyed.

I like the BTDC setting method