First Lister d restoration

You need a key remover and penetrating oil, do you have a slide hammer.

I dont have a slide hammer, iv just been heating it and putting penetrating oil on it for 2 days, I mite go scrap yard this week see if I can find a decent bit of steel to make a drifter from.

So a update, fitted new crank bearings, blocked sludge cleaned out and blocked washed down fully stripped ready for a repaint now to ask opinion on colour because some look darker then others I know mid brunswick is the go to and original but I don't want it to dark I do like the slightly lighter green can anyone give me a good recommendation ? Any pictures of painted engines would help and what colour they are. Im going to use spray paint as I cant get on with brush on paint the brush lines annoy me to much.

Mid Brunswick Green is the correct factory colour which is not to dark, in my opinion, but from experience it will darken with age as I suppose all other greens will do possibly as the engine gets heated and then cools down again.

Maryalice

Thank you for that. Is the paragon paints good ? I'm thinking 2 strap cars of red oxide and 2 mid brunswick green should do it.

I've never used paragon paints, Craftmaster paints are good, what ever you use will have to withstand petrol spillage, two coats of both will be enough, I suspect that will be better than the original factory finish

Maryalice

The paints are enamel paints. Worth a try I guess and the red oxide is this OK? Don't have a temperature rating on it https://www.stationaryengineparts.com/Red-Oxide-Primer-Aerosol.html

The mid brunswick spray has a temperature rating upto 170c will that be OK on the block ?

I've never bought anything from stationary engine parts, I would think 170° C would be ok.

I used these




https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182963279071?var=690278107227

Cheers Andy looks good. Iv ordered the same paint now. Is it good to work with ?

Yes it’s fast drying and non porous primer. I’ve had a petter A1 flywheel outside since last year and no rust has come through
The enamel needs 24hrs ideally but can recoat after 15 minutes to possibly save further coats

I buy primer here https://trade-mart.co.uk/products/action-can-rx-90-red-oxide-primer-ral-3009-500ml

Block painted, new crank bearings, bore de glazed, piston rings and piston back in along with crank. The paint I must say is very good, easy to work with and looks very nice once on but don't do what I did turn the block upside down on the studs and it fell over cost me over half a can of paint more so now I got to be careful or ill have to buy more paint.

You can see how nice the paragon paint comes out

Hi guys

So had the engine finished almost while it was running I started noticing bubbles in the water so tightened down the head bolts to then snap one so after much swearing and chucking some spanners. I took the head off got the stud out but what I need to know is the gasket has some pitting from a rookie mistake not cleaning the block off properly. I don't really want to buy another gasket as this one is new.

Will this seal do you think or what can I do to make sure it dose or do you think its no good now picture to follow

When you first fitted the gasket did you smear grease on both sides to help seal it. The pitting will be difficult to remove because of where it is, put the gasket in a hot oven to anneal it, over 100 degrees, then let it cool slowly. Smear both sides with grease and then bolt it down and try the engine again, if you have to pull it down do it evenly I e a quarter of a turn each stud

Maryalice

I did use grease both sides, but I got carried away building the engine I cleaned the head off but forgot to clean the block off and that is the result a rookie error and a snapped stud. Well if it dont seal then I guess the only option is new gasket again ?