Lister D Restoration ~1928/29 shaft drive with Ricardo head

After over 30 years in storage, my Lister and I have finally been reunited. The back story to this







So what's the plan? The engine had an overhaul before I got it and has run very little since however there's still things that need attention. It's going to be put back into running condition over then next few years whist keeping an eye out for parts. The crankcase is full of detritus and needs a good clean out and externally a lick of paint (the paint I put on 30 years ago seems to have done a good job of keeping the rust at bay). The crankshaft sleeve might need replacing from the look of it. Missing parts: Number one is the fuel tank. Does anyone know of one for sale?

New ones available from Franks Tanks https://www.franks-tanks.co.uk/ or Matthew Pomeroy on Facebook.

Make sure you get the correct tank with the threaded brass cap in the centre of the radiused top, you will need the treaded straps as well.

Martin P

Thank you both for the links for petrol tanks, it's good to know they're still obtainable. I'm going to fabricate what I can, possibly including the tank but that's lower down on my list right now.  What I really need is to see an original of the same vintage to take photos and make notes. The "The Lister D Story" and "Restoration Book" is on my shopping list, the former's cover picture being a close resemblance of mine albeit with the lovely spoked flywheel.

Progress has been made over the last week. The block and head are fully stripped down ready for decrease and paint. Studs/nuts ordered to replace incorrect ones. The timing gear assembly is full of grit and grime but I'm holding off dismantling it until I have the info to get the timing back correctly.

Have sent you a PM.

Maryalice

Quick update. Thanks to Maryalice for sharing his knowledge along with the tank dimensions, I now have an idea on how to proceed with that. Crankcase and timing gears have been degreased once, I'll probably have another session before painting them. The ancillary parts and head are pretty much there. Next jobs are finish off painting crank case and governor casing then replace the crank sleeve.



Note: The base for the mag has been painted. I'll remove the paint before fitting.

Nicely done, must remember to email data sheet.

Maryalice

Quick question for early D owners: According to the literature, my governor road is missing a spring (thackery) washer that provides dampening (part S418/S618). Was this an addition to later specs or am I indeed missing it?

I would say your missing it otherwise you cant accurately adjust the governor rod between its two support point. Mine all have it including my Spec 13.

Maryalice

Quick update. Crank sleeve replaced without too much fuss. I don't have an anvil so the old had to be ground down to remove. The big end bearing had to be feteled slightly to get it to run smoothly.
 

Today has been a good day, she's finally running (more on that later). A week ago it was not so healthy. I did get it to run for a few seconds but not great. A wet plug pointed towards a bad spark, there was one but you had to crank it until your arm was dropping off to get any. The mag came off and was given a good going over, new HT lead, plug, condenser and points and seemed much better during a dry run. With a funnel to keep the float chamber topped up (I still don't have a suitable tank), oil checked she fired up without any fuss. As you can see the wheels are not really up to the job and I am on the lookout for something more suitable. Once running and the float topped up, she runs nice and slow.







Next job is the tank fabrication.

Peter,
Stretch the spring on the intake valve it needs to hold the valve shut and only lift when air is drawn, it will run better and more even.

Maryalice

Thanks for the tip, I'll add that to my snag list. The threaded shaft that it runs in is seized and I do need to get another nut to use as a locknut to help remove it. I'll keep squirting it with oil until then.

Peter,
The removal of the threaded sleeve will end up in wrecking it as they are almost impossible to remove because they are so thin, be prepared to make a new one.

Maryalice

I might leave well alone then and start saving for that Myford. And a bigger place to house it.

As luck would have it, I went to remove the spring today and the threaded shaft came right out just using my fingers! Penetrating oil and vibrations of the last run I guess.

Thats fortunate, the usual thing is to unscrew with a screw driver which if tight will ring it off and break.

Maryalice

Update: I've had it running for around an hour total so far and it's now dialled in by adjusting the throttle and air valve springs, ticks over is much better. This is with the float bowl attached, we'll have to see how that is when removed and using just suction from the low tank. Speaking of which, things have progressed with the fab work: construction wise, I'm going from the design of a later high tank, I have a rotten one I've sectioned. I'm still concerned on getting a good seal with the solder and going to do some test on some spare off-cuts. The main worry is the top cap on the curved surface; it seems a wide gap on the sides to seal.

Re the tank filler, there is a slight radius under the cap base to get it to sit correctly on the radiused tank.
When soldering try and use a copper soldering Iron heated by a gas torch to solder the joints gas heat is to agressiive when trying to solder and plenty of Bakers fluid and make sure the surfaces are spotless.

Maryalice

I've just had a quick test which turned out to be a mixed bag. Got good results with one but the other two looked a bit iffy. The flux I bought is La.Co regular soldering paste. It's acid-free and for water pipes so could be for lead-free stuff. Seems to turn black very quickly and when it does nothing will stick to it. I'll get some Bakers to see how that goes. I have come to the conclusion my blow touch needs tossing as it's keeps quitting, new one ordered. I just don't have a soldering iron suitable for this.
As for the cap, It does have a radius but not as profiled as the tank top. I did try and tweek it but it makes the cap threads bind.

Should be fine with LaCo, that's all I use. Sounds like you are over heating the flux as it does burn quickly. As Mary said an iron is the best way but I've had good results with one of them little pencil blowlamps

Sounds like your burning the flux with to much heat, If you are over my way I can give you a copper soldering iron FOC as I bought a job lot a few years ago.

Maryalice

Oi Apple, Whats with this Mary thing, Alice is better

Re the cap radius, find a piece of bar the same dia as the bore of the threaded piece, preferably a tightish fit, hold the bar in the vice and gently increase the radius, the bar will hold the bore diameter.

Maryalice

Thanks, I might take you up on the iron offer depending on how it goes. Interestingly I've just seen the photo on page 16 of Edgington's List D story book of the tank manufacturing dept. You can clearly see them using the copper irons. I always had in my head it would be done solely by torch just like copper pipe (the only metal soldering I have experience with).

The Bakers liquid arrive today (still waiting for the new blow torch) and it seems to work much better than the La.Co stuff. It doesn't burn and turn black. Keeping the temp down and running a clean screwdriver down the join to push the solder around has produced good results on my test piece! Things are looking better.

Nice tip on the cap, I never thought of that. I'm being super careful not to damage it as it wasn't cheap. I STILL don't have my Myford I want so no way of turning down some stock but mackays of Cambridge should be able to help. I'll ask for a price when I'm next in town, shouldn't be too expensive.