Lister D sump oil capacity

One of them questions probably not often asked because its easy to just fill it up right
I have searched and searched and never found the answer, so could anyone please tell me how much oil it takes from empty upto the correct level.
Thanks

Evening,

undo the filler cap buterfly nut then pour the oil until it reaches the lower lip of the filler.

Maryalice

maryalice wrote:Evening,

undo the filler cap buterfly nut then pour the oil until it reaches the lower lip of the filler.

Maryalice

Hi Maryalice, thanks I know that but what I wanted to know was how much oil capacity (1 litre, 2 litre ect)
Cant find any figures anywhere

Thanks again

you wont find any figures, unless you work it out and tell us

maryalice

I have several Lister instruction books, but none of them quote the oil capacity.
They all describe the method "maryalice" mentions above.

If filling with oil after a restoration, you should also fill the oil trough that the spiral gears run in. This is accessed via the crankcase door.

I read in an official Lister booklet that two pints poured through the valve chamber is the correct amount but the last time I poured two pints into a rebuilt D part of it ended up on the garage floor! I wondered then if the earlier models had a slightly larger oil capacity than the later versions? Now I just fill the oil filler until it takes no more, but as Phillip said I fill the timing case first.

Pete.

Thanks very much all for taking the time, knowledge is the key

[quote="blue cat"]I have several Lister instruction books, but none of them quote the oil capacity.
They all describe the method "maryalice" mentions above.

If filling with oil after a restoration, you should also fill the oil trough that the spiral gears run in. This is accessed via the crankcase door.[/quote]

Gonna pull you up there Philip, it's the A that has a trough you access through the crank case door, the D trough is filled via the 710 plug on the timing cover.....

Villiers,

Give Blue cat some slack, he only knows about open cranks, not like us Experts

Maryalice

Villiers wrote:

blue cat wrote:I have several Lister instruction books, but none of them quote the oil capacity.
They all describe the method "maryalice" mentions above.

If filling with oil after a restoration, you should also fill the oil trough that the spiral gears run in. This is accessed via the crankcase door.

Gonna pull you up there Philip, it's the A that has a trough you access through the crank case door, the D trough is filled via the 710 plug on the timing cover.....

Haha, it's 'OIL' not 710!! I think you knew that anyway! The shaft drive D's don't have that plug so you have to fill them through the crankcase door, although if you pour the oil in through the valve chamber it does the same job.

Pete.

Was you who called it the 710 plug Pete!!

maryalice wrote:Villiers,

Give Blue cat some slack, he only knows about open cranks, not like us Experts

Maryalice

Thanks for the slack !! Although I have restore a few, I'm not an expert on the Lister D.

All interesting comments, the instruction booklet I have says "fill the timing gear through hole on the left inside crankcase" I also read somewhere but cant find where there should be a wick in the lubricator cup & to put a teaspoon of oil into that. Mine had no wick but I filled with oil and it just sat there so removed it cleaned and put back with a wick in, now it does the job. All I need to do now is set the governor and soon found just like oil quantity there are not set settings.
I think these engines lasted so long because nothing was over complicated, like fill with oil and if its too much it will run out, simple basic things, do that with a modern engine and you'll pay for it big time.

Yes, with these old engines don't overthink things as you will end up going mad. It's a simple thing and has been designed for a simple mind.

Everything ready for a trail run with new oil, any advice on setting up the governor? the spring that was on it looked like it was out of a pen so changed that and cleaned the seized threads, and guess what.. no instructions on setting it. So it will either strat and rev like mad or not start at all and I havent enough wind to keep trying

Well, If it was I then I'd slacken everything off as much as possible and go from there, maybe set it so the spring just opens the butterfly a little tiny bit and see, can always adjust open if the bugger don't start.....

The slacker the spring the slower it will go, thats assuming you haven't had the governor linkage to bits, if you have you will need lots of puff over several days to get it all back to scratch.

maryalice

maryalice wrote:The slacker the spring the slower it will go, thats assuming you haven't had the governor linkage to bits, if you have you will need lots of puff over several days to get it all back to scratch.

maryalice

Thanks maryalice
well... it is partly in bits BUT I didnt clean the paint off as I planned so it should be more or less as it was. Thats presuming it was set up and running ok At least I now have something to go by, I will let you know how it goes ... or not

An Update.
Now runs like a watch, a noisy watch but music to my ears. I did fit a new condenser after the original played up but an easy fix. The float bowl was given a good clean then another good clean in a sonic cleaner, needle & valve was cleaned which helped it looked like it hadnt been touched in a very long time. Now it is easy to start and a pleasure to turn over, next thing is to try and make the exhaust a little quieter, maybe fit a longer pipe if it is housed in an outbuilding, it's a plan in development.

it carnt be that easy just to fill the filter until it reaches the lip what about a full rebuilt engine with no oil.does the governor have its own oil
when i fill the governor do i fill it up until it starts to come out of the oil cap
then fill the crank case to the filter or will the governor oil spill out into the crank case

It can, and it more or less is, back when I had Lister D types all I did was put a squirt of oil in the govener housing after a rebuild then use the wick oiler from then on, take the OIL bung out on the timing case and fill the tray under the gears and fill the sump. Good squirt over the valves and valve gear and that's it.