my first engine

Thanks Steve, i'm pretty sure the small pulley is just a drive pulley so i doubt there will be any marks, i will check the flywheel for marks next time i'm at the workshop

showing my lack of knowledge again i'm still at the bottom of a steep learning curve.

thanks for the advice .....nice engine
Neville

I just think skimmed flywheels look over done the engines were made to work not look nice, then again its down to personal preference, and if you want it bright and shinny who am I to say against that.

Im not sure on the Petter A (or A1) pulley but the one on my open crank is shaped to keep the belt on.

You can just see its higher in the middle then at both ends



Cheers Steve

thanks I'll bear that in mind too.
i just discovered this forum doesn't resize images, wondered why i was only seeing 1\2 an engine most of the time (i use low screen resolution so i can see the words)

Neville

Yea it can be a pain, I use a 13inch macbook so sometimes images done fit.

Cheers Steve

Neville without trying to tell my granny how to suck eggs! you have tested your paint to ensure it's ok if you spill petrol on it? I just wouldn't like you to paint and re-build then find the paint blisters first time out. If you've checked it please ignore this post

Stu.

stationary stu wrote:Neville without trying to tell my granny how to suck eggs! you have tested your paint to ensure it's ok if you spill petrol on it? I just wouldn't like you to paint and re-build then find the paint blisters first time out. If you've checked it please ignore this post

Stu.

it had better be or i will not be amused..............its being sold as Stationary Engine paint

http://www.stationaryengineparts.com/Stationary-Engine-Colours/

Yes it should be ok, a lot of forum members use there paint and don't have any problems with it. Sorry but it beats me why everyone buys there paint at the prices they charge, it only a machine enamal that can be picked up for half the price they charge. I'm only half way through painting my Wolseley so more coats need adding and I'm getting a good finish on it already, I decided to spray this time to see how it turned out and I'm impressed up till now and the cost of the paint is about £9.50 a litre. I have got some cans of clear laquer but not sure if I'll spray it on or not yet as the paint doesn't need any more protection.

Stu.

Steve i checked today and the small drive pulley has no marks and is parallel all the way along
the flywheel also has no marks there are some punch marks on the gears though

neville

last casing off today, only the crank conrod timing gears and mag left in the base now

never seen a mag before should be interesting finding how it works.

did the pulley and flywheel just pull straight off, or do you need to do something else first? there's so much old aint on mine i can't tell!

Nate wrote:did the pulley and flywheel just pull straight off, or do you need to do something else first? there's so much old aint on mine i can't tell!

i was lucky with mine,the back of the key on the pulley was tight to the pulley so i pulled it off with the key still in, i was able to drive the flywheel key out with a tapered drift then sand the shaft with 150 grit emery, oil it then slide the flywheel off.

I'm not good at electrics so i have been reluctant to remove the mag until now, but it had to come off so i can clean and paint the crank case. the timing gears are marked and i tried hard not to move anything inside the mag body.

I don't live where the workshop is so i bring bits home to work on in the evenings so tonight the points cover and what i call the mag drive came home for a clean up and first primer coat




apart from the 2 bits of wood its bolted to everything thats coming off is off so i guess the next phase will involve a lot of cleaning and painting and designing and building a trolley for it.

which brings me to the question is there a right way round to mount an engine on a trolley i guess the flywheel and pulley wheel should be lined up with the long side to stop it being pulled over sideways by the belt drive and probably the engine towards the back to stop it tipping forwards.

i'm also thinking about a cut out below the drain plug so the oil doesn't run out over the wood when its drained like it does now.



looking at that image those bolts look awfully close together so i guess it would need mounting on 2 cross pieces fixed between the long bits

up until about 10 minutes ago i thought the trolley was going to be one of the easier bits

Neville I thought to build a trolley for my Wolseley was going to be straight forward WRONG I'm bolting it directly onto the trolley now I think I should have used cross members to bolt on to as the trolley is very narrow. Only things to remember is will you be able to get it out of gates, doors, down the side of the house etc you'll have to plan a route if space is tight. Also on the rally field the flywheel must (unless close coupled to a genny etc) face away from the crowds and down the line of engines. So if the flywheel comes off it rolls along behind the fence. (hope you can understand that bit ). So you have to consider this when trolley building. If you get stuck on the rebuild mag fitting I'm sure someone will be able to help, the Petter A1 isn't to bad to re-fit.

Stu.

thanks for the advice Stu, i'm still pondering the trolley.
meanwhile the old wood came off today


looks bit bare now

feeling a bit better about doing this now the first coat of primer is on the base


thought i'd paint some of the bits black as i don't want it to look like a big green blob

the towbar finally arrived for the car so that will be fitted tomorrow morning

neville

Your going great guns Neville keep up the good work, just wish I had the energy to work on my engines as much as you do. It will look good with the 2 colours, like you say not just another all green blob.

Stu.

ordered trolley wheels, trailer winch and tie down straps from the internet tonight

painting continues


neville

Wish you'd said about needing the straps sooner as there's a place near Mike sells them at a good price and very good quality, including a certificate so you know how safe they are. If you need anymore I can recomend these.

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Handy-Straps/Prof-Ratchet-Straps-/_i.html?_fsub=13455389&_sid=123266481&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

I've also had the bungee rope from them and buy the ends seperate, then cut them to length, great idea as you can then make them as long as you need.

Paint work looking well, keep up the good work.

Stu.

Stu the straps i bought were not that expensive anyway but thanks for the link i know where to look if i need some more

started making the trolley now as i want to rebuild the engine on it so i don't have to lift it on afterwards.

i was given an old oil can a few days ago been doing that too

done


wheels arrived today, cast for engines rubber for the pump and castors for the union drill


some bits that are finished ready to go back on.


neville

You have been busy Neville, do like the oil can, you need to find an old petrol can now, there's always plenty on ebay at a good price. Some petrol cans are collectors items and bring big money, just watch as when I was new I ended up with a paraffin can by mistake as I wasn't sure so just went for the cheapest ok if you've a petrol/paraffin engine which I havn't.
I like the cast wheels they do look good and not that expensive, in the past I've always gone with the nylon wheels for cheapness untill I've found some better ones.
Are you polishing the alloy parts before refittting or waiting till the engines rebuilt? I tend to clean before I rebuild then it's not as difficult and just need a quick buff every now and then, all takes time that's the only problem.

Keep up the great work and I do love to see the pics of how your getting on,

Stu.

stationary stu wrote:You have been busy Neville, do like the oil can, you need to find an old petrol can now, there's always plenty on ebay at a good price. Some petrol cans are collectors items and bring big money, just watch as when I was new I ended up with a paraffin can by mistake as I wasn't sure so just went for the cheapest ok if you've a petrol/paraffin engine which I havn't.
I like the cast wheels they do look good and not that expensive, in the past I've always gone with the nylon wheels for cheapness untill I've found some better ones.
Are you polishing the alloy parts before refittting or waiting till the engines rebuilt? I tend to clean before I rebuild then it's not as difficult and just need a quick buff every now and then, all takes time that's the only problem.

Keep up the great work and I do love to see the pics of how your getting on,

Stu.

Thanks Stu,
always nice to have some encouragement the guy who owns the workshops where i go tells me he has an old 2 gallon petrol can somewhere that i can have for free not seen it yet though.

old cast alloy parts are never that easy to polish but i have cleaned the dirt off and painted some of it, the carb is polished up a bit and i might have a go at the mag before i refit it.

the engine crankcase (base casting) got its last coat of paint today.........2 primer and 3 gloss coats altogether. and i washed out what sludge there was with white spirit and removed some debris.

morticed the trolley on one side in the wrong place this morning the guys there (all volunteers) all took the p out of me as usual then said people who don't make mistakes never do anything

i'm planning to run the old union drill i bought for 15 quid with the Petter so its getting the treatment at the moment the main column is seized into the top casting and the base, the rest is stripped down and painting has started.................







hoping to get a petrol tank for the Petter this weekend at the Heveningham Hall Country Fair on Sunday ...........from someone i met on another forum..........not sure on the etiquette here regarding other forums so i will not include a link...................link to show here

http://www.stationaryengineforum.net/t3501-heveningham-hall-country-fair#20023

regards neville

Wow you've more jobs going then I have, glad to hear you've started on the trolley and sorry about the small set back it happens to us all. I built a trolley a few weeks back got the sizes mixed up so the engine won't fit, so it's now a trolley to mount a water pump on Lucky I wasn't using hard wood or I might have been a bit peed off by it.
Hope you get the tank for the Petter and it's ok and you can use it on your engine. As for the other site I think we are all members on there and some of there moderators are members on here and we don't have to many problems and manage to get along with each other ok. We tend not to advertise other forums we know they are there and wish them every success.

Keep up the great work,

Stu.

work is progressing on the pillar drill which will be silver and bare metal when finished. got the blow torch and a big set of stilsons out today and separated the last 3 bits



meanwhile the trolley is about 1\2 made



got my petrol tank at the weekend bought a tap for it on ebay, hope i got the right size



fishing tomorrow, after going to the shot blaster to drop this lot off


regards neville

Hi Neville,when you come to replace the gudgeon pin, drop the piston into a bucket of boiling water for 2 or 3 mins and you will find that the pin will probably push in and out with your finger.It is meant to be tight in the piston or it would wear out the aluminium piston!
Cheers Bill.

bencam43 wrote:Hi Neville,when you come to replace the gudgeon pin, drop the piston into a bucket of boiling water for 2 or 3 mins and you will find that the pin will probably push in and out with your finger.It is meant to be tight in the piston or it would wear out the aluminium piston!
Cheers Bill.

thanks for the tip, after getting the pin out i found a lump inside the back edge of the hole in the piston where the pin had been banged in not quite in line, after removing that with a half round scraper the pin fits nicely now

neville

bit more work on the trolley today, finished the 5th wheel, waiting for the steel for the axles to be delivered now.

fitted a few bits back on the engine, first the spacer block for the mag



then rebuilt the governor and fitted the timing case



it has taken a month so far.
neville