My first Stationary engine

Interesting tip I found about top coats of paint...


"How long between coats?


The answer is 24 hours.

Yours is a very good question and one that actually occurred to me a couple of years ago when I had a project that involved gloss finishing. The idea of rubbing down a lovely new coat of paint to provide a key for the second coat didn’t seem right. I had never seen that advice in any of dozens of diy books. Moreover, when I looked at the instructions on the tin of paint I was using there was no suggestion let alone instruction to rub down the newly painted surface before applying the recommended second coat.

I telephoned Dulux and they confirmed my instinct was correct - within time limits. The second coat of gloss should be applied as soon as the first coat has dried but before it has fully hardened, ideally this should be within 24 hours. Effectively, this means re-coating 16-24 hours later. I imagine there is a certain tackiness that remains enabling good adhesion. Leave it beyond 24 hours they said, and one will need to rub down the first coat. I followed the advice given and I had no problems, the second coat went on as easily as the first.

Be sure to apply the first coat at a time when you absolutely know you will be able to finish the job the next day."

that's interesting, was thing of putting a lacquer over the top coat?

Villiers wrote:Interesting tip I found about top coats of paint...


"How long between coats?


The answer is 24 hours.

Yours is a very good question and one that actually occurred to me a couple of years ago when I had a project that involved gloss finishing. The idea of rubbing down a lovely new coat of paint to provide a key for the second coat didn’t seem right. I had never seen that advice in any of dozens of diy books. Moreover, when I looked at the instructions on the tin of paint I was using there was no suggestion let alone instruction to rub down the newly painted surface before applying the recommended second coat.

I telephoned Dulux and they confirmed my instinct was correct - within time limits. The second coat of gloss should be applied as soon as the first coat has dried but before it has fully hardened, ideally this should be within 24 hours. Effectively, this means re-coating 16-24 hours later. I imagine there is a certain tackiness that remains enabling good adhesion. Leave it beyond 24 hours they said, and one will need to rub down the first coat. I followed the advice given and I had no problems, the second coat went on as easily as the first.

Be sure to apply the first coat at a time when you absolutely know you will be able to finish the job the next day."

paint something around 8pm and then again when you get home the next day ... I have always rubbed down primers , scotch pads are good at that .

matt

[quote="Lewis MacRae"]that's interesting, was thing of putting a lacquer over the top coat?[/quote]
Never used lacquer in 35 years of restoring engines, have seen it on engines though, after a few years the got a yellow "tinge" to the paintwork though.

Lewis MacRae wrote:that's interesting, was thing of putting a lacquer over the top coat?

the enamel is oil based so will shine well once hardened off .... not sure if add some thinners will make shine more ...

matt

Should do, when I restored my bulldozer I thinned the top coats with white spirit and that had a lovely deep shine when finished.

Villiers wrote:Should do, when I restored my bulldozer I thinned the top coats with white spirit and that had a lovely deep shine when finished.

I have heard of using petrol gives a brilliant shine too .

matt

matt86 wrote:

Villiers wrote:Should do, when I restored my bulldozer I thinned the top coats with white spirit and that had a lovely deep shine when finished.

I have heard of using petrol gives a brilliant shine too .

matt

what, mix petrol in the paint?

"flatter the paint finish the better the shine" and if mixes in with paint white spirits "boosts the shine ive found on some paints
24hrs between top coats is my way also
but if you use hammerites or plasticotes they have a maximum between coats far less than 24hrs, and if you do paint ofter there times on cans ,then its a wringley orange peel finish ,been there done that on iron fences and other none engine related projects over the years       
i use from 800-2000 grit sand paper between coats depends on what the coating is
i also only lacquer on  gold leafing and water slide decals
a good quality car polish about a month after the painting is finished ,
and then after all that effort its just a soft clean oily rag "shines like a button and any chips just oiled also as holds the rust monkey back
unless its a sore thumb chip then its a paint in touch up with a small brush and steady hand
kev

Lewis MacRae wrote:

matt86 wrote:

Villiers wrote:Should do, when I restored my bulldozer I thinned the top coats with white spirit and that had a lovely deep shine when finished.

I have heard of using petrol gives a brilliant shine too .

matt

what,  mix petrol in the paint?

yeah thats the one ... only about 15 % max

matt

matt86 wrote:

Lewis MacRae wrote:

matt86 wrote:

Villiers wrote:Should do, when I restored my bulldozer I thinned the top coats with white spirit and that had a lovely deep shine when finished.

I have heard of using petrol gives a brilliant shine too .

matt

what,  mix petrol in the paint?

yeah thats the one ... only about 15 % max

matt

wouldent the paint smell of petrol?

If you are brush painting then i'd advise heating the paint tin up in a tub warm water, the paint will naturally become less viscous and you won't lose any of the colour by thinning. Theres also less chance of drips and paint sagging once applied as the paint becomes thicker once applied to the cold cast iron.

Biggusdannus wrote:If you are brush painting then i'd advise heating the paint tin up in a tub warm water, the paint will naturally become less viscous and you won't lose any of the colour by thinning. Theres also less chance of drips and paint sagging once applied as the paint becomes thicker once applied to the cold cast iron.

Thanks, I will try that for the third coat! How long in tub?

Lewis MacRae wrote:

matt86 wrote:

Lewis MacRae wrote:

matt86 wrote:

Villiers wrote:Should do, when I restored my bulldozer I thinned the top coats with white spirit and that had a lovely deep shine when finished.

I have heard of using petrol gives a brilliant shine too .

matt

what,  mix petrol in the paint?

yeah thats the one ... only about 15 % max

matt

wouldent the paint smell of petrol?

would when its wet put when it dry its fine , but with a good shine on it .

matt

Lewis MacRae wrote:

Biggusdannus wrote:If you are brush painting then i'd advise heating the paint tin up in a tub warm water, the paint will naturally become less viscous and you won't lose any of the colour by thinning. Theres also less chance of drips and paint sagging once applied as the paint becomes thicker once applied to the cold cast iron.

Thanks, I will try that for the third coat! How long in tub?

I usually put the tin in about 15-20 mins before painting and top up with more warm water and leave it in there whilst painting. I wouldn't worry about the shine, a good quality enamel paint will dry glossy anyway. Heres a pic of a DK I restored a couple of years ago, I painted the engine in an unheated garage in January. I had to leave the paint a bit longer to harden but you can see the results. http://www.flickr.com/photos/61705435@N08/5610439197/in/set-72157626790320369

Cheers:cheers: 

Hi guys, done a bit more today, 2nd coated the other side of the flywheel, the tank straps, the oil filler and starting handle. First coated the carb   I did what biggusdannus suggested and warmed the paint before.

I forgot to say yesterday, I reused the old flange for the exhaust asI didn't like the idea of buying a new one, so I reused the old which was stuck on a non original exhaust. So I cut the pipe near flush. and the filed it down so it was flush. then I cut 4 slits in the pipe from the inside and then heated it up and cooled and then turned it upside down and did the other side. To get the pipe out I got a cold chisel on the pipe and hit it with a hammer until it eventually came out. I retapped the threads with a tap and then all that was needed was to then prime it.

I was happy with the end product as It meant I didn't need to but one  




Warming the paint by LewizMacRae, on Flickr


Lister D carb in first coat by LewizMacRae, on Flickr


Lister D parts in 2nd coat by LewizMacRae, on Flickr


Lister D parts in 2nd coat by LewizMacRae, on Flickr


Lister D parts in 2nd coat by LewizMacRae, on Flickr

I'll put pics up of the Flange later

have done a bit more over the last few days, the pics will do most of the talking although I did a mock up of the trolley minus part of the axle and also extracted a broken stud, It was originally but as I tried to bend it back to get it out it sheared   I also put a set together of picture's of taking the flange of the pipe. I cut up the angle iron into four pieces but still need to get the exact size. the mock up of the trolley isn't measured or anything its just the wood placed on top of the axels at the moment.

enjoy  

Here's the link to the set about the flange     http://www.flickr.com/photos/lewizmacrae/10614783323/in/set-72157637201816433

the link to the set about extracting the stud     
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lewizmacrae/10614324864/in/set-72157637201547106


Mock up of the Lister D trolley by LewizMacRae, on Flickr


Mock up of the Lister D trolley by LewizMacRae, on Flickr


Citting the angle iron for the lister d trolley by LewizMacRae, on Flickr


Cutting up the angle iron for the Lister D trolley by LewizMacRae, on Flickr


angle iron for engine axels by LewizMacRae, on Flickr

I'll be honest, with Lister D flanges I don't even bother to slit them with a saw, just hammer them in and away you go.

good work there Lewis lad .

is that wood Oak ? what is the angle iron for ? oh and you tight sod buy some new  £20 max for a 6mtr length of 50 x 50 x 3 ....

matt

Nice work so far mate, agree with Matt reference the iron bin the old stuff and get some nice new iron, understand this day and age money can be tight but its worth it in the long run

Abes wrote:Nice work so far mate, agree with Matt reference the iron bin the old stuff and get some nice new iron, understand this day and age money can be tight but its worth it in the long run

dont bin it keep it for knocking up temporary frames works or brackets and the like but not on stationary engine trolleys .

matt

matt86 wrote:good work there Lewis lad .

is that wood Oak ? what is the angle iron for ? oh and you tight sod buy some new  £20 max for a 6mtr length of 50 x 50 x 3 ....

matt

Yip that's white oak and the angle iron gets welded to the round bar and then gets bolted to the runners, I had a whole lot of angle iron anyway so thought mite aswell yous it:lol: 

matt86 wrote:

Abes wrote:Nice work so far mate, agree with Matt reference the iron bin the old stuff and get some nice new iron, understand this day and age money can be tight but its worth it in the long run

dont bin it keep it for knocking up temporary frames works or brackets and the like but not on stationary engine trolleys .

matt

its a light engine as its just a d and this concept was used for the lister L aswell

Lewis im going to make you go green with my axle bits for the fairbanks  

Il take a picture in a minuite in the shed ...

Instead of angle wouldn't it be better with some flat bar ??? If you lived closer i would say come around and i would give you some flat bar .

matt