International M trolley building & restoration

As most of you know i have a International M petrol paraffin engine , I have started making the trolley as its just sat on a temporary trolley At the moment , spent a good half a day sanding the wood down as have been previouslly treated with something and where had been stored the damp and mold had got into it .

So been varnishing it with some Yacht varnish , and 5 coats later and a few coach screws later this is what you end up with .






to do

All i need is to go get 2 more stainless coach screws as the prat where got the screws did not count the right amount out

Then all i need to do is to start designing the metalwork .

matt

LOL what a sledge now i know they forcasted snow but are you not jumping the gun a bit

Only kidding mate looking good what size wheels you going to go for

Abes wrote:Only kidding mate looking good what size wheels you going to go for

im being different going for 5 spoke wheels 12" on the rear and 9 " ones on the steering but they will go underneath the trolley for a good turning circle .

I have got the 9 " ones but the 12" ones im picking up next sat . Il need to start thinking about the metal work now .

matt

Looking good rember must American engines used Galv water pipe for axles
Jonesey

Looks like you done a good job on that matt, not be long before you have it sorted.

I don't like useing pipe for axles since I had one give way, never again on a big engine, ok on small stuff.

Stu.

JONESEY wrote:Looking good rember must American engines used Galv water pipe for axles
Jonesey

surley not on bigger engines like a 3hp ?

i was planning to use solid bar as stronger , its a shame how i can not make a original design of trolley but i think the ideas i have got the yanks would like . But i surpose they was designed to be simple .

matt

Yes they used 1 1/2 od Galv water pipe it's thick walled
Jonesey

Stu your axle broke because someone had drilled through it for bolting to the woodwork instead of using clamps etc, hence it had weakened the pipe. Tube should be fine as long as it is thickwalled as Chris has said, not used it myself but there must be considerable weight saving over solid bar.

Pete.

Foden wrote:Stu your axle broke because someone had drilled through it for bolting to the woodwork instead of using clamps etc, hence it had weakened the pipe. Tube should be fine as long as it is thickwalled as Chris has said, not used it myself but there must be considerable weight saving over solid bar.

Pete.

so if i used this with some pillow blocks should be fine ...????

matt

I would have thought so matt, as long as it is thick walled and not like an exhaust pipe! I bet that if you look at pics on the forum of Chris's engines they will be on tubular axles.

Pete.

They all are on thick walled Galv pipe I will take some photos tomorrow
Jonesey

JONESEY wrote:They all are on thick walled Galv pipe I will take some photos tomorrow
Jonesey

cheers chris , where do you get your galv pipe from ?

matt

1 1/2" thick walled i would say a builder/plumbing suplys yard as thick wall galv was water piping on farms not long back maat
kev

Matt, out of my garage any air compresser suppliers plumbers.
I get my from a place in Glasgow next day delivery
Jonesey

JONESEY wrote:Matt, out of my garage any air compresser suppliers plumbers.
I get my from a place in Glasgow next day delivery
Jonesey

Chris i might have to ask you to get me some once i know what length the axles need to be .

matt

Foden wrote:Stu your axle broke because someone had drilled through it for bolting to the woodwork instead of using clamps etc, hence it had weakened the pipe. Tube should be fine as long as it is thickwalled as Chris has said, not used it myself but there must be considerable weight saving over solid bar.

Pete.

I can't remember all the details that was years ago, Pete you must have a good memory, I can't remember something that happened last week, think it's the meds I'm on.

Stu

Some engines I have on pipe axles, these are the axle blocks I use
Jonesey

thanks for the pictures chris , can you get the axle blocks and if so how much ?

also what is the height of them ?

cheers , matt

a little update today , have been messing around with the IHC and i have got the engine off its skids now and after its off its is well rotten ! fell apart more or less .

I managed to tip the engine onto its rear end and inspect the fuel tank , not is well from where it has been stood around with no fuel in for years the tank has started to rust out and have a few holes , and a puncture wound from looks like somewhere has been stored must been dropped onto something sharp like a crowbar screwdriver etc . That was a mission to get that out due to all the pipes being well stuck in , the majority of the pipes i have got out but there is a few that i need to renew .

So basically its a full fuel system rebuild / replacement from the fuel tank all the way to rebuilding the carb and a new fuel tank and fuel lines .

matt

matt
sounds like you need fertilizer on that money tree of yours
chin up look on the bright side, it could be worse ,it could be me lol lol
franks tanks is the man ,but at a cost or theres a chap on here offering fueltank repairs at a fair price SENIORENGINEERS
DONE ME SOME PRICES AND HES WHAT I CALL FARE PRICED indeed ,even i can afford his prices
if you need franks tanks number pm me and will dig it out for you mate
kev

kevjhnsn wrote:matt
sounds like you need fertilizer on that money tree of yours
chin up look on the bright side, it could be worse ,it could be me lol lol
franks tanks is the man ,but at a cost or theres a chap on here offering fueltank repairs at a fair price SENIORENGINEERS
DONE ME SOME PRICES AND HES WHAT I CALL FARE PRICED indeed ,even i can afford his prices
if you need franks tanks number pm me and will dig it out for you mate
kev

Kev there is no problem getting the parts , as i will be getting from the states , A fuel tank on this engine is not as simple as a European engine just bolts on and 1 fuel line ... the tank is in the base held in place by 2 bolts but the is loads of pipes .

You have the filler pipe that goes into a tee fitting before the tank for a overflow return and then into a nipple to the top of tank itself , then you have the fuel drain a pipe with a cap on the end , then you have a fuel pick up and breather , ( a tube that comes out of the tank from the bottom so can pick up the fuel ) which is a Tee on the top and 2 pieces of pipe 3" long 1/8 NPT to the elbow for the pickup whish joins on the fuel line , and the breather 1/4 NPT to a elbow the another piece of 3" long x 1/4 NPT pipe to the breather cap .
then there is the 3/8 fuel lines i need to make with NPT compression fitting on as someone has cut them and fitted plastic fuel line . Then a new fuel pump as its not there , and a big pile of parts to rebuild the carb .

In all the parts fills half a sheet of a4 lines paper

total price before shipping and import tax is £224 .

this will have to wait a bit i think as have some more jobs at priority and rallying over the summer .

matt

Ps i will get some photos up

Matt, for your M type wheels should be 14" dia , 3 " face
Axles are 1" pipe, 28 1/8 long
Wheels are 6 spokes type.
If you give me the engine numbers I will date it for you
Jonesey

JONESEY wrote:Matt, for your M type wheels should be 14" dia , 3 " face
Axles are 1" pipe, 28 1/8 long
Wheels are 6 spokes type.
If you give me the engine numbers I will date it for you
Jonesey

thanks for the offer Chris but i have already dated it .... 1925

I have allready got some wheels that are close enough to what the original cart drawings i got from the states Says that should be 12" on the rear and 9" on the steering axle ... so that is what i have gone by . I will just have to get the wheels drilled out to just above a inch .

thanks for your help , matt

Dont worry Matt there's no rush and it will be all the sweeter when its fully restored and up and running, Matt did you find out where Jonesey got the axel blocks from in the end as could do with some of them myself